Arts & Entertainment

Under-the-radar excellence at Lineage

Clockwise from top: Tempura monkfish cheeks with potato crisps, tartar sauce, and greens; seared Scituate scallops with artichokes, fingerling potatoes, and ramp vinaigrette; roasted shrimp and grits with chorizo gravy.
Clockwise from top: Tempura monkfish cheeks with potato crisps, tartar sauce, and greens; seared Scituate scallops with artichokes, fingerling potatoes, and ramp vinaigrette; roasted shrimp and grits with chorizo gravy.Credit: Photos by Michele McDonald for The Boston Globe

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LINEAGE

Jeremy Sewall is executive chef and co-owner of Island Creek Oyster Bar, one of the hottest places in the city for seafood. Eastern Standard and the Hawthorne, where he is consulting chef, are always buzzing. And this fall Island Creek spinoff Row 34 is coming to restaurant-neighborhood-of-the-moment Fort Point, where it will stand alongside projects from celebrity chefs. In leafy Brookline, Lineage feels as though it’s a world away. But Sewall’s lowest-profile restaurant rivals the others with which he is involved. Lineage’s seafood dishes are as strong as Island Creek’s, sometimes stronger. Its service is gracious. Its cocktails are excellent (try the crimson Fiore). Seven years after it opened, it glides along, quiet but sure -- now with a new chef de cuisine, Alex Saenz.

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