Arts & Entertainment

Boston steakhouse Grill 23 & Bar is tried and true

Clockwise from above: At Grill 23 & Bar, the mac and cheese comes plenty cheesy and with bacon; the crab cake is entirely crab, served with red cabbage slaw; the 100-day aged rib eye is tender,  with its character intact; and the grilled Scottish salmon is made with smoked shrimp stuffing, crispy sage, and root vegetable succotash with fresh black-eyed peas.
Clockwise from above: At Grill 23 & Bar, the mac and cheese comes plenty cheesy and with bacon; the crab cake is entirely crab, served with red cabbage slaw; the 100-day aged rib eye is tender, with its character intact; and the grilled Scottish salmon is made with smoked shrimp stuffing, crispy sage, and root vegetable succotash with fresh black-eyed peas.Credit: PHOTOS BY LANE TURNER/GLOBE STAFF

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GRILL 23 & BAR

In restaurant years, 30 is an eternity. Few businesses make it that far. Times change. Tastes change. But a good steak is forever. This year, Grill 23 marks three decades serving marbled beef to businesswomen and birthday boys in the old Salada Tea building. Here, the panels are mahogany, the columns Corinthian, the lampposts brass; the walls are draped in tapestries and the tables in white cloths. Same as it ever was, inside the restaurant, at least.

Outside, expense accounts have deflated and competition has arrived in the form of new steakhouses. That little has changed is mostly a good thing. What makes Grill 23 stand out is executive chef Jay Murray’s classic steakhouse fare. It is possible to eat a nearly perfect meal here.

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