High on nostalgia

Author: By Richard P. Carpenter, Globe Staff

Date: SUNDAY, August 4, 1996

Page: M6

Section: Travel

Yes, the past -- the late 1940s, in fact, a time when American optimism was boundless and expectations were great. Our time machine is a nicely refurbished DC-3, the legendary ``Grand Old Lady of the Skies'' that dramatically advanced transportation with its comfort, reliability and safety. Today's excursion will be a 1 1/4-hour flight to and from Anchorage via Prince William Sound, where some of the world's most ruggedly beautiful scenery awaits.

With Glenn Miller's ``In the Mood'' playing over the plane's loudspeakers, we passengers are in the mood for nostalgia as we enter the shiny, silver-and-red Spirit of the North, operated by Era Classic Airlines, and proceed up the aisle. And I do mean ``up'': When on the ground, the aisle is on an incline; when we are airborne, it is level.

We take our seats -- there are 28 of them, and they are cloth-covered -- and note that instead of having a pull-shade, each window is framed by tiny curtains. At the same time, we are greeted by our air hostesses -- not flight attendants, mind you -- who are dressed very much in the style of the 1940s: blue uniforms with caps, white gloves, pearls and nylon stocking complete with seams. They introduce themselves as Cheryl Erickson and Lanara Watson.

The big band music (more Miller as well as Benny Goodman and Jimmy Dorsey) fades as Cheryl tells us to fasten our seat belts and notes that ``this plane will be flying 4,000 to 6,000 feet high at speeds of 150 miles an hour. But we want you to know that the human body is perfectly capable of functioning under these conditions.'' We are also reminded to ``refrain from smoking those Luckies, Camels and Pall Malls -- and those stogies, also.'' Other than that, we are urged to ``sit back, relax and enjoy your sentimental journey.'' That, we suspect, will not be hard to do.

The propellers whir, the engines roar and we are in the air. The pilot and co-pilot take us to our cruising altitude, and hostess Cheryl returns to brief us on the news of the day -- a day in June 1948, that is. ``Congress has passed a resolution allowing 20,000 women to enlist in the military,'' she tells us. ``Elsewhere, auto companies, including Chrysler and Nash, have raised workers' wages by up to 14 cents an hour more. That is expected to increase the cost of cars by about $60. . . . In local news, Nome is experiencing a severe shortage of women residents. The male-to-female ratio is 500 to 1!''

Snack time. Along with pastries, Lanara and Cheryl offer champagne, mimosas, coffee, tea or Coke. I choose a Coke and am delighted to find it served in a curved green glass bottle. Awash in nostalgia and Coca-Cola, I inspect the rest room and find the only element that doesn't mesh with the 1940s aura -- a decidedly modern portable facility. But I am told they will be working on a way to make the facility classic yet modern.

Only one thing distracts us from all that is going on in the plane, and that is the scenery otuside. But what a powerful distraction it is. We fly over massive fields of ice, snow-streaked mountains, cobalt-colored fiords, spruce forests and the captivating coastline of Prince William Sound. Our captain, Christopher Urstadt, narrates and includes information on the Exxon Valdez oil spill in 1989 that made ``spillionaires'' out of some who participated in the cleanup. But my thoughts at least are not of oil but of Alaska's natural beauty. Our 49th state leaves me in a state of awe.

The captain also tells us about the plane we are flying in. What is now the Spirit of the North was delivered to the Air Force in January 1944, serving as a troop carrier and most likely playing a part in the D-Day invasion. The plane continued on active duty until the mid 1950s, then became a corporate aircraft. It was overhauled and thoroughly refurbished in 1989. Era Classic Airlines also operates a sister DC-3, the Spirit of Alaska. The nostalgia trips are in their second year.

Our flight is nearing an end, but there is time for our hostesses to pass out magazines -- issues of Life from the late 1940s. (You were expecting Rolling Stone?) These provide a fond look at a world that would be forever changed by an object showcased in some of Life's ads: the television set. No matter: We will be in the TV-less past for a few more minutes.

As we prepare to land, the hostesses pass out Wrigley's Spearmint Chewing Gum. The plane touches down and we return to the present. For some reason, though, I have a strong urge to head to the nearest music store and pick up a Glenn Miller album.

For more information or reservations, see a travel agent or call Era Classic Airlines at (800) 866-8394 or (907) 266-8394. Flights are also offered as options on Princess Cruises land tours of Alaska. For more information, see a travel agent or for a brochure call (800) LOVE-BOAT (800-568-3262).