In Boulder, take tea and see

Author: By Tatiana With Ribadeneira and Diego Ribadeneira, Globe Staff

Date: SUNDAY, September 21, 1997

Page: M10

Section: Travel

True, the presence of the University of Colorado and its 25,445 students does not go unnoticed. But Boulder is also sophisticated and artsy and the headquarters to many high-tech and research companies, including the National Center for Atmospheric Research and the National Institute of Standards and Technology.

And because it is close to the Rocky Mountain National Park, it is the home and destination of many outdoors enthusiasts.

Only 30 miles northwest of downtown Denver, Boulder is a perfect spot for a great day trip. Although Boulder has many attractions to visit, we drove up to check out three things: The Boulder Creek Path, the Celestial Seasonings tea company, and the Pearl Street Mall. We found it to be a fabulous itinerary.

Celestial Seasonings is, not surprisingly to herbal tea connoisseurs, on Sleepytime Drive. The company, which was founded in 1969 by two teenagers picking herbs in Aspen and is now the nation's leading producer of herbal teas, has a sprawling complex in northeast Boulder, complete with its own Celestial Cafe and a splendid gift shop. There, one can sample many of its 50 varieties of herbal teas and buy the colorful boxes at discounted prices, as well as other tea-time merchandise.

Free one-hour tours of the tea-producing plant are offered Monday through Saturday on the hour from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. They are fascinating.

After a brief history of the company, which has 250 employees, our tour guides led us from a small herb garden to the inside of the giant plant. Our first stop was a gallery of paintings and sculptures that the company commissioned as art for its tea boxes, including the Sleepytime teddy bear dozing in his overstuffed chair. Donning the hairnets required to tour the plant, we followed our noses to where the spices are stored and handled.

Walking among tubs and tubs of exotic spices, we learned about black teas and green teas and mixed teas. We picked up all kinds of little gems: Did you know Russians drink the most tea? Celestial ought to know, since they export to 25 countries. Then we got to our favorite spot. Hidden behind a red and white striped garage door was the ``mint room,'' where all the different mint and spearmint leaves are kept. The leaves were so pungent that they made your eyes water and immediately cleared your sinuses.

The automated production line was also amazing, measuring tea, cutting tea bags and packaging the stringless squares into boxes. Every 24 hours, the company produces 6 million tea bags.

A glorious day beckoning outside, we headed toward the Boulder Creek Trail for a bike ride. We rented bikes from University Bicycle on 9th Avenue and Pearl Street, just a block away from the 9-mile trail. It was cheap. Cruisers were $10 each for a half-day, including helmets and locks. Mountain bikes can be had for $14 for the half-day.

At the suggestion of the bike shop operators, we first headed west on the off-street bike trail, which runs from 55th Street and Pearl Parkway to the mouth of Boulder Canyon.

Climbing toward the canyon, our ride became increasingly challenging. After about a mile, the paved trail became gravelly and steep -- but still quite manageable on the street bikes we rented. This side of the trail was stunning. Magnificent red rock formations on one side and the rushing creek on the other, we felt as though we were far away from any town. The quiet was intermittently interrupted by kayakers and innertube riders who braved a little white water in the narrow creek.

Heading east on the 9-mile path, we meandered through the middle of the city along the park, riding without worry because underpasses and bridges protected us from traffic. Boulder has an estimated 93,000 bicycles, more than one per resident.

On the path, we passed buildings belonging to the University of Colorado, office towers, and businesses. Once we got past all that, we were surprised with a treat: A field filled with prairie dogs, tiny animals who stand on their hind legs next to their burrows, staring at you and making high-pitched squeals.

At the Pearl Street Mall, once the hangout of '70s television characters Mork and Mindy, we enjoyed listening to street entertainers, sitting at sidewalk cafes, and visiting the many galleries and boutiques along the four-block stretch that is the mall. It's a great place to people watch.

Although there are many restaurants along the mall, we ate at Oasis, a microbrewery on Canyon Boulevard and 11th Street, only two blocks away from the mall.

Offering award-winning beers, the restaurant also serves up a rather eclectic menu. We tried a Barbecue Chicken Pizza that featured a crust made with one of the restaurant's beers, the Tut Brown Ale, and was topped with red onions, chicken, and provolone cheese.

With its beautiful surroundings, wealth of outdoor activities, and smorgasbard of galleries and restaurants, it's no wonder Boulder is such a hip town.