Chicago, a treasure

Author: By Sandra Gittlen, Globe Correspondent

Date: SUNDAY, October 19, 1997

Page: M1

Section: Travel

Minneapolis was an option because, having gone to school in Wisconsin, I have a lot of friends who had migrated there. Although the round-trip fare for that destination was astronomical, the sales agent jokingly said, ``We can get you to Chicago, though.'' I quickly took her up on her offer.

Chicago is one of those rare destinations that is a treasure regardless of the weather. During my four days there, it was cold, windy, and rainy. Yet, I couldn't have asked for a better place to unwind and lose myself in my surroundings -- all without breaking the bank.

Before I set off, I had the task of finding a hotel. I was on a limited budget, so glamorous hotels like those along the Magnificent Mile, Chicago's luxurious shopping mecca, were out of the question. I did, however, want to be near some landmarks so I wouldn't have to spend a lot of money on transportation.

As it turned out, I found the Essex Inn, an old relic of a hotel that sits on the far end of Michigan Avenue overlooking Grant Park near the Art Institute. While it is missing amenities such as a concierge and spa and gift shop, this gem had a helpful staff, rooms with views of Lake Michigan, and a price that can't be beat. For $89 a night (with an AAA discount), the Essex Inn is a bargain. And if you want all that other stuff, the Hilton is right next door. (Essex Inn: 800-621-6909, Michigan and Eighth.)

Known as a hub of shopping, culture, entertainment, and architecture, Chicago has so many things to see and do, it is difficult to figure where to go first.But wherever you go, there is someone available to educate you about the history surrounding every building on every block.

A quick way to familiarize yourself with the city is to hop on a Chicago Trolley Co. sightseeing trolley. With more than 10 stops at popular landmarks, this informative tour lets you preview the land. Knowledgeable drivers offer trivia about the city's sites and engage in a constant banter with riders. The trip takes about two hours, starting and ending at the Sears Tower, but all-day tickets are also available if you want to get off at various stops and explore. (Chicago Trolley Co.: 312-738-099.)

Although many Chicago sites are best taken in during the warmer months, such as the Navy Pier and the myriad boat tours, the city does have a lot to do when the weather turns colder.

My favorite find was the Chicago Theatre. Once the host of performers such as Frank Sinatra and Shirley Temple, this movie palace, part of the city's Loop district, came within a wrecking ball's swing of being lost forever in 1985. Built in 1921, the Chicago Theatre served the downtown area as an opulent diversion to Depression-era blues. It was modeled after the Paris Opera House and showcases chandeliers, marble fountains, and a wondrous sculpted dome ceiling that was uncovered during the 1985-1986 restoration. For $3, guests are treated to an extensive tour of the theater, detailing its history, its near-closure, and its bright future as one of the newest members of the Disney family. (Chicago Theatre: 312-263-1138, 175 North State St.)

Also in the Loop is the Chicago Cultural Center, one of the jewels in the city's tourist-friendly crown. Within this one building, a landmark in itself, are the Museum of Broadcast Communications, a visitors' center, and a host of cultural offerings, including dance performances, art exhibits, and films -- all for free! The visitors' center is a one-stop spot to plan a day in the city. From dinner suggestions to the latest theater shows, the representatives there make seeing the city a less-daunting experience. (They even told me how to get half-priced theater tickets at the Hot Tix booth downtown.) The Museum of Broadcast Communications takes guests on a tour of radio and television through the years, from ``Fibber McGee and Molly'' to the O.J. Simpson trial, stopping along the way at the Kennedy-Nixon debates and other events that shaped the media. With frequently changing installations in the art halls and an extensive list of performances, the cultural center is not only a jumping-off point for tourists, it is an attraction unto itself. (Chicago Cultural Center: 312-346-3278; 78 East Washington St.)

Farther down Michigan Avenue is the Art Institute of Chicago. Opened in 1893 at the World's Columbian Exposition, this museum houses some of the world's most famous art, including the original George Seurat painting ``Sunday Afternoon on the Island of La Grande Jatte'' and Edward Hopper's ``Nighthawks.'' In addition, its traveling exhibits have included last year's Monet show, from which the artist ``Haystack'' series remains on display. With free admission on Tuesdays, the institute provides an accessible look at art through the ages and from around the globe. A must-see is Marc Chagall's stained-glass display. And check out the building's architecture, as well. Two bronze lions stand guard in front of the museums, and a grand staircase, with a skylight that was just added in 1987, is the perfect place to start. (Art Institute of Chicago: 312-443-3500; 111 South Michigan Ave.)

A cluster of three museums linesthe lakefront: the Adler Planetarium, the field Museum of Natural History, and the John G. Shedd Aquarium. Each requires at least two to three hours to get through (and even that is rushing it).

The Adler Planetarium is home to the Sky Theater. Exploring subjects such as comets, the theater has a dome-shaped screen that lights up to simulate the night sky. After an astronomy-related film, guests are taken to the Sky Theater via a new ``Stairway to the Stars'' escalator that joins the two theaters for a demonstration of how comets are viewed. The planetarium also has interactive exhibits about space and the moon landing. Tuesdays are free. (Adler Planetarium: 312-922-7827; 1300 South Lake Shore Drive.)

The Field Museum of Natural History, which was also founded at the 1893 World's Columbian Exposition, is home to one of the most expansive collections of artifacts and specimens of anthropology, geology, zoology, and botany. With displays that appeal to adults and children, this museum provides a wealth of information about our ancestors and global neighbors. Exhibits range from life-size animals to a history of African shamans. Dinosaurs tower far above your head, and the ominous pounding of feet is piped into exhibit halls, offering a sensory exploration into our past. Wednesdays are free. (Field Museum: 312-922-9410; Roosevelt Road and Lake Shore Drive.)

Blending into the turquoise waters of Lake Michigan, the Shedd Aquarium is amazing as much for its structure as for the more than 6,000 aquatic animals that reside within. In 1990, the aquarium added an oceanarium to its array of natural habitats. The oceanarium is home to beluga whales, sea otters, and dolphins -- all viewable from re-creations of rocky mountain coastlines of Alaska and the Pacific Northwest. In the main building, there is also a 90,000-gallon Caribbean coral reef tank featuring sharks, sea turtles, and eels. Oceanarium tickets are half-price on Thursdays. (Shedd Aquarium: 312-939-2438; 1200 South Lake Shore Drive.)

The city's night life ranges from blues bars to comedy clubs to cigar and martini bars. However, stepping off the beaten track of traveling Broadway shows proved even more entertaining and affordable.

After trying unsuccessfully to get tickets to Second City, the popular Chicago-based comedy troupe, I found another comedy club near Wrigley Field. The Improv Olympic featured two improv groups in an intimate setting for minimal price. Yet the comedy was on par with Second City. For more than two hours, I was treated to hilarious antics. (Improv Olympic: 312-880-0199; 3541 North Clark St.)

Another find was the newly opened Rock Bottom Brewery. Although the microbrewery craze has swept the East Coast, the Midwest is still struggling in this arena. The Rock Bottom, sandwiched between mega-chains such as Planet Hollywood and the Hard Rock Cafe, offers six bold ales, all brewed on-site. The sampler platter and beer pretzels are a great combination. (Rock Bottom: 312-755-1677; 1 Grand Ave.)

For a more active outing, Buddy Guy's Legends, located near the Essex Inn, offers the ethereal combination of pool-shooting and blues music. With an extensive list of local and national acts such as W. C. Clark and G. E. Smith, Legends is the smoky blues bar you expect of Chicago. A combination of locals and tourists makes it a fun, friendly place. (Legends: 312-559-1212; 754 South Wabash.)

The phrase ``good food'' in Chicago is almost redundant. Most places feature a bounty of great offerings. Picking one to spotight in a city that's known for its diversity in cuisine is futile. Even Wolfgang Puck's Spago's, one of the town's newest ventures, has a delectable menu. And much to my surprise, for lunch, it's pretty affordable. The waitstaff was friendly, offering me tips on where to spend the day and advice on what to order. With the staff's greeting of ``Make sure you come back, now,'' this restaurant reminded me more of a small-town diner than a metropolitan bistro. (Spago's: 312-527-3700; 520 North Dearborn St.)