ALL TYPES OF TREASURES
The new Cleveland

Much more than the Rock Hall of Fame

Author: By Richard P. Carpenter, Globe Staff

Date: SUNDAY, April 26, 1998

Page: M1

Section: Travel

``Well,'' I said. There's the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame, which I've always wanted to see, and there's . . . there's . . ..''

I couldn't give much of an answer then. But after visiting this city of boundless enthusiasms, I can say a lot more:

There are gorgeously restored theaters, marvelous museums, a world-class symphony, plenty of places for good-time gatherings, unique parks, fine food, professional sports, family attractions, funky shops, inviting waterways, striking architecture, and Midwestern hospitality.

And, oh yes, there's the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame.

In short, there's a new Cleveland, in the midst of a renaissance that emphasizes the power of preservation and draws on a rich cultural heritage. Oh, there are still some grim-looking buildings, relics of the city's heavily industrialized past, but there are shining new ones, too. As more than one person told me: If you haven't been here for a few years, you won't recognize the place. And if you come back in a few more years, you won't recognize it again.

No need to wait, though: Cleveland is ready for visiting.

Some 120 more stores and bistros (and, this summer, a Hard Rock Cafe) can be found downtown in Tower City, a nicely restored railway station. But that's hardly all. One of the downtown gems is Playhouse Square Center, the world's largest theater restoration project.

A little history is in order: In the 1920s, Playhouse Square was the home of gilded dream palaces like the State Theatre, the Ohio Theatre, the Hanna Theatre, the Allen Theatre, and the Palace Theatre, where stars like Fanny Brice, Jack Benny, and Harry Houdini made the area glow.

But the years went by, and changing times and lifestyles dimmed that glow. The streets were virtually deserted at night, and the grand buildings were crumbling. In 1971, the wrecking ball was about to do its duty when a handful of theater lovers stepped in to save the grand old buildings.

Today, thanks to a multimillion-dollar public-private partnership, the glory days are back. The State, the Ohio, and the Palace, have been renovated, restored, and actually improved with more comfortable seats and better sight lines. There are chandeliers, marble pillars, richly brocaded curtains, antiques, and grand stairways. And when the redoing of the Allen Theatre is completed in October, this four-theater complex will constitute a performing arts center second in size only to the Lincoln Center in America. Presentations range from mega-hits like ``Beauty and the Beast'' to individual concerts by stars like k.d. lang. The State is also the permanent home of the widely acclaimed Cleveland Opera and the Cleveland San Jose Ballet. Also part of the complex is Ciao Cucina, a worthy Italian restaurant, and OHvations, a shop bursting with theater souvenirs, recordings, and gimcracks. Nearby, the lovingly renovated Hanna Cabaret offers musical presentations like the uproariously funny ``Forbidden Broadway'' and ``Always . . . Patsy Cline'' to go along with your cocktails and coffees.

There's more downtown. The restored warehouse district is home to such shops as the Brenda Kroos Gallery, where, Kroos says, ``art doesn't have to hang on the walls.'' In addition to fine paintings, there are vases, jewelry, and trinkets galore such as good-luck stone eggs and crystal Hershey's Kisses. Art doesn't necessarily have to be expensive, either: Items start at $2 for a brightly colored glass ``ice cube.'' The Gateway Complex, meanwhile, is sports heaven, housing the Cleveland Indians' Jacobs Field (the Tribe sells out every game) and Gund Arena, home to basketball's Cavaliers.

Nearby is Severance Hall where Cristoph Von Dohnanyi wields the baton for the Cleveland Orchestra, considered one of the finest in the land. The ceiling of the Grand Hall, where the orchestra plays, is thought to replicate an old wedding gown. In Chamber Hall, scene of other concerts, there are such semihistoric touches as under-the-seat wires designed to hold men's hats back in the days when every male wore one. Severance Hall will soon undergo a major renovation, with a completion date of January 2000 (There's that preservation theme again.)

Still within the circle is the Museum of Natural History, a favorite of school groups and anyone fascinated with the flora and fauna that make up our world. Here you meet Lucy, a first casting of the bones of the oldest known human fossil; gaze up at an allosaurus, whose big bones have been pieced together to form a complete skeleton; experience an earthquake; and touch a 4 1/2-billion-year-old meteorite. And in May, a glittering Gem Room will open. Other worthwhile museums in the circle and thereabouts include the Rainbow Children's Museum, the Health Museum of Cleveland, and the Dittrick Museum of Medical History.

Theater is well-represented in the circle, too. The Cleveland Play House presents original and classic plays in a multistage theater. A few blocks away, Karamu House highlights works of the African-American community and also hosts traveling exhibits. Karamu means ``a joyful gathering place,'' and that's just what it appeared to be.

A restful stop is Cleveland Botanical Garden, with its seven acres of display gardens. And the Cleveland Cultural Gardens, between the University Circle area and the Interstate 90 Freeway, presents 270 acres dedicated to some of Cleveland's ethnic communities; not surprisingly, you'll find items like a Celtic cross in the Irish Garden, a Star of David in the Jewish garden, and a bust of Shakespeare in the English garden. The city, after all, is home to about 80 ethnic groups, and 60 languages are spoken in Greater Cleeveland.

The Western Reserve Historical Society shows the Cleveland that was, and includes the Chisholm Halle Costume Wing, containing garments from the late 1700s to the present. (Wedding gowns of the past are currently on display.) Another feature is the Hay-McKinney Mansion, built in 1911, which can be toured. I confess a special liking, though, for the Crawford Auto-Aviation Museum, filled with 200 vintage, antique, and classic cars. I found myself wishing I had more time to admire a Tucker, a Thunderbird convertible, a Jaguar from the 1960s, and a special display of bizarre cars such as an amusement park vehicle shaped like a rocket ship.

I wish I could have taken my own advice and allowed plenty of time.

Even before entering the lakefront building, you are struck by the architecture of this $92 million I.M. Pei-designed building, with its great glassy pyramid. But if, like me, you grew up breathing in rock 'n' roll with the night air, you won't be able to wait to get inside. You may well find yourself lost in memories of a younger you as you view the thousands of artifacts -- clothing, musical instruments, show programs, and more. Some examples: a letter from the Rolling Stones to Santana, Gene Vincent's leather jacket, Jimi Hendrix's patchwork velvet jacket, John Lennon's flower-power Rolls-Royce, Michele Phillips's silk sari. The movies show not only the stars but illuminate the marvelous melding of blues, gospel, hillbilly, and other sources into the music that became rock 'n' roll.

Just opened is the new Hall of Fame, a wing designed to honor the more than 140 inductees and one that replaces a smaller hall that was thought by many to be too dark and overly reverent. Along with the stars' signatures glowing from a lucite wall, there is a pulsing multimedia show on a giant screen that shows the talent that got the performers into the hall in the first place. (I looked in vain for the name of the ``Earth Angel'' doo-wop group, the Penguins, but maybe they'll be there in the future.)

The museum's presence has given (and will give) rise to other attractions. Next to it, showing off complementary architecture, is the Great Lakes Science Center, with hands-on displays that entertainingly explore everything from the wonders of electromagnetism to the force of gravity. A six-story-high Omnimax theater, meanwhile, shows science and adventure films that surround the viewer. And come 1999, the Cleveland Browns will play in the 12-story-high stadium now being built.

There's more: colorful neighborhoods like Little Italy; historic areas like Shaker Square and Larchmere Boulevard; the Cleveland Metroparks Zoo, which has a pack of Great Plains wolves and a rain forest, too; the Cleveland Center for Contemporary Art; the West Side farmers' market; and a 19,000-acre, 100-mile ring of metropolitan parks. And did I mention the American Slovenian Polka Style Hall of Fame? In Greater Cleveland, meanwhile, there are more than 300 golf courses; family attractions such as Sea World of Ohio, Cedar Point Amusement Park, Geauga Lake Amusement Park; and the Pro Football Hall of Fame. There's so much, in fact, that what Danny and the Juniors sang about rock 'n' roll appears to apply to the new Cleveland as well: It's here to stay.

Cleveland is a 90-minute flight from Boston (and my Continental flights were actually early, both ways). Once there, it's easy to get around by public transportation, including the Regional Transit Authority's new Waterfront Line. Boston area drivers will be impressed by the wide roads. They were laid out in 1831 by founder Moses Cleaveland, who was influenced by the boulevards of Europe. In addition, Cleveland is only one of a few cities where you can take a train system (the RTA) right from Cleveland Hopkins International Airport to the heart of downtown. A quick way to familiarize yourself with the city, though, is to hop aboard Lolly the Trolley (a small bus in disguise) for a two-hour tour of the city's high points. University Circle, meanwhile, provides a free shuttle to get from attraction to attraction.

The city has several brand-name hotels, with five more being built within the next two years. One new deluxe hotel, the 205-room Wyndham Cleveland in Playhouse Square, may be recognized by viewers of TV's ``Drew Carey Show.'' It adjoins the Halle Building, seen at the start of each show. Dining spots range from the Hyde Park Grille (for steak lovers) to the Baracelli Inn (for Italian food) to Hot Sauce Williams Barbecue Restaurant (for you know what). Those who want waterfront scenery with their meal might consider the floating restaurant Nautica Queen.

In May and June, the exhibit ``Gifts of the Nile: Ancient Egyptian Faience'' will be at the the Cleveland Museum of Art.

The ``Here Come the Brides'' exhibit at the Western Reserve Historical Society runs through Sept. 15.

``Beauty and the Beast'' runs through May 3 at the State Theater. ``Chicago'' will be at the Palace, May 5-17. ``Forbidden Broadway'' and ``Always . . . Patsy Cline'' continue indefinitely at the Hanna. At the Cleveland Play House, the musical ``Blues in the Night'' runs through May 3, the comedy ``Sylvia'' through May 17.

The Rock and Roll Hall of Fame has a new exhibit, ``Three Decades of Rock Legends,'' running through 1999. In August, a new exhibit about the life and career of the man who made so much of rock 'n' roll happen, Elvis Presley, will open.