Time takes a vacation on this ranch

Author: By Elizabeth C. Winship, Globe Correspondent

Date: SUNDAY, December 14, 1997

Page: M9

Section: Travel

I first went to the T Cross ranch in my early teens. I had had such a wonderful time I was afraid things would be different now, 60 years later. Or perhaps my memory played me false. That was not so. Everything looks the same -- the clear air, Wyoming's gorgeous Wind River Range, and the sagebrush plains -- only more so. There are a few more buildings, more horses, and even the corral seems bigger. It certainly is busier.

T Cross was homesteaded in the late 1800s by a fugitive from the Johnson County cattle wars. It started operating as a dude ranch in 1920. I remember there were five or six of us dudes in the mid '30s. This year, there were 14 of our family, three generations strong, plus another large family group as well. But there are still some cattle, and real cowpokes, male and female.

We try to make a family trip annually, and last summer chose this ranch. Huddled against the Shoshone National Park Forest, the T Cross Ranch has a perfect Western setting. The nearest town is Dubois, about an hour'a drive from Jackson Hole airport.

The road from town to the ranch gives you a picture of what's in store. As you leave Dubois, you are soon in national forest. The road gets steeper and more winding, and you're likely to be held up as cattle wander down the road.

T Cross is at the head of the lovely valley. A swift cold river, appropriately named Horse Creek, runs through the ranch, producing big trout for the skilled and lucky fisherman. (We have photographic proof.) It is a perfect setting, and the ranch buildings are just right -- log cabins with low roofs, connected by paths. They are simple but wonderfully supplied. There also is terrific hiking to spectacular views right from the ranch.

The owners of T Cross are Ken and Garey Neal. This couple has been running dude ranches for 30 years. Ken, known as the resident Marlboro Man, has worked ranches since he was a child. He hand-picks the ranch horses so they are sound, willing, and able. Each guest is assigned a horse suitable to the rider's ability. Garey is a marvelous hostess, making each guest feel comfortable and wanted.

The decor is authentic West; not gaudy or overdone. The Neals have anticipated their guests perfectly. Anytime you need something, it's already there. Even our smallest grandsons, ages 2 and 5, found plenty to do. When they tired of riding two dummy horses, playing croquet or other games, or reading books, there was always Horse Creek to throw stones in.

Breakfast, like every meal, is all you could ask for and a lot more. The cook is masterful, producing goodies you can't ignore: pancakes, waffles, omelets, and muffins. And dinners are wonderful. A couple of our grandchildren have dietary needs, which were always met without complaint. I never thought trail riding was enough exercise to warrant stuffing yourself three times a day, but all of us happily made pigs of ourselves.

Soon after breakfast, we gathered at the corral. The first day, Wendy, the chief dude wrangler, queried us on our riding experience, and then paired us up with a suitable horse. We rode the same ones every day, and quickly learned their little habits. The horses are so well broken in and dependable, even the least experienced riders can pretty much just climb on and go. Sometimes we rode half a day, sometimes all day, stopping for a picnic lunch. The first few days, getting off the horse was a mixed blessing, with muscles announcing ``Time out!'' But the views were so spectacular we couldn't concentrate on pain. Though we only took day trips, the ranch can arrange for overnight rides, or pack trips for a week or more. Alas, we didn't have time.

The ranch wranglers are pros. Safety for horse and rider is their sole concern. Horses are herd animals, and like to stick together. Head one out on a trail, and the rest will usually just follow along. The trails mostly lead up steeply, and then (of course) lead down again the same way. The horses walk carefully. But even the gentlest horse needs to be shown that the rider, not the horse, is in charge. Mine liked to stop and snitch the tender tops off giant thistles if I didn't keep him going.

As soon as we came in from a ride, we headed straight for the hot tub. What a blissful cure for dude ailments, sore muscles, and chafed skin!

We tended to congregate on the lawn, well before dinner, appetites keen after the day's activities. Croquet might develop (with unusual rules to accommodate 5-year-olds and 60-plus-year-olds), or soccer, etc. Then, after overeating yet again, there might be informal music, or cowboy recitals in the comfortable living room. (I was thrilled to hear once more ``The Gol Darned Wheel,'' and I'll recite it myself, if given a chance).

What a great place this was to return to! No wonder as many of the same people keep coming over and over again down the decades. I can promise that if you do, you'll find it will look and feel just about the same every time.

For more information, write to Ken and Garey Neal, T Cross Ranch, PO Box 638K, Dubois, WY 82513; or call 307-455-2206.