GUILIN, CHINA, ATTRACTS POETS AND PRESIDENTS WITH ITS SHEER BEAUTY

Author: By Gena Reisner, Globe Correspondent

Date: SUNDAY, July 5, 1998

Page: M1

Section: Travel

The scenery in Guilin is astounding and unique: Over an area of 230 square miles, vertical limestone pinnacles jut straight up from the flat land in a type of terrain called karst. Considered the most scenic spot in China, Guilin has been inspiring artists and poets and attracting tourists for at least 13 centuries. To travel all the way to China and skip Guilin is like touring the United States and missing the Grand Canyon.

Like every traveler to Guilin (including President Clinton), we took the Li River boat cruise, which travels for four glorious hours through the thick of karst country. The most frequently heard advice about this trip is ``Bring lots of film.'' It's easy to shoot a dozen rolls or more when every bend of the river reveals a bathing water buffalo with a pinnacle, a bamboo boat with a pinnacle, a terraced rice field with a pinnacle, a line of pinnacles bending into each other and swathed in mist.

From the terminus of the cruise at Yangshuo, it's just a 1 1/2-hour drive back to town. The group tours hurry back in their buses, stopping once (if at all) at the most scenic spot. We took our time, stopping along the way to explore little villages and to watch as farmers, carrying the traditional Chinese burden of baskets balanced on a pole across their shoulders, crossed their green and gold rice fields with karst peaks rising up behind them. We could stop when we wanted because we had our own car, driver, and guide throughout the trip. A luxury in most countries, this freedom cost us only 10 percent more than a group tour in China. We arranged all our touring and hotels in advance through an excellent tour operator, Chinasmith (212-239-2410, 800-US-CHINA, Web site: idt.net/agontr).

Guilin itself is a small, clean, tourist-friendly city, quite comfortable for wandering around. That evening, we strolled along the river on a broad, cobblestone promenade. We passed couples doing ballroom dancing to taped music, and farther along, we heard the distinctive sound of old-fashioned roller skates from the town rink. Finally, at a bend in the river, we came to Elephant Trunk Hill -- the downtown pinnacle -- bathed in green light and full of local people climbing the paths to the top in the balmy air.

The favorite evening entertainment in Guilin is the night market that stretches from the Sheraton Hotel to the Lijiang Hotel along the river; it runs from 8 till midnight. Most stalls feature fake antiques and offer a chance to snap up souvenirs that were missed during the rest of the trip, such as Xian farmer paintings and chops (name stamps). Past the Sheraton, a few stalls offer silk goods. Another evening or early morning activity is a short boat trip to see a performance of local fisherman using trained cormorants to catch fish; it costs under $10.

Adding to our enjoyment of Guilin were the wonderful culinary specialties: the delicious Guilin-style fried rice noodles and Li River fish, and, best of all, the fresh-water chestnuts, which were crisp and sweet. We enjoyed these dishes at the Sheraton's casual Guilin Food Street, where a typical meal costs under $10. The hotel's executive chef also recommended Red Lantern near the Holiday Inn, Julie's for Szechuan food and Kowloon for seafood.

For the Chinese, the specialty of Guilin is eating wildlife such as snakes; a single snake costs about $36 and is cooked up with chicken and pork to feed about eight people. There's a row of restaurants across from Elephant Trunk Hill serving these specialties. Feeling adventurous, we wandered over to Sisi Shunder Restaurant, which had the biggest crowd. After watching one waiter gingerly capture a cobra, snip off its head, squeeze the blood into a shot glass, and deposit the head in a carafe of liquor, it took a while for us to regain our appetites; we didn't stay for lunch.

Most travelers spend one night in Guilin, take the Li River cruise, and fly off to Hong Kong (or elsewhere). But Paul and I had promised ourselves a leisurely trip through China, and we had three days to enjoy Guilin. We spent one day traveling three hours into the countryside to the Long Shen area to visit two ethnic minority villages. This trip isn't for everybody: It's a long road trip, and the only bathroom stop is in the woods. But the roadside views of wooded valleys and hillsides terraced with emerald green rice paddies are worth the journey. In the Zhuang village, wooden houses cling to one side of a steep hill, terraced fields cover the other side, and all the women wear towel turbans. One turbaned woman led us up 500 steps into the village and invited us into her home (expected tip, $1.40); the animals lived on the first floor, and rice was drying in front of the family shrine.

In the Yao village, the women came running to greet us across a swinging rope bridge that spanned a ravine. Their bright pink embroidered costumes, we could tell, were put on just for us -- but the amazing hairdos were real: The women in this village have hair long enough to reach the ground and wear it coiled around their heads with a bun in the front. On our last day in Guilin, we finally climbed a karst formation -- popular Folded Brocade Hill at the edge of town. It was a long way up stone steps shiny from centuries of wear, and the view from the top was stunning: a panorama of the town and the surrounding pinnacles. Our only regret is that we didn't stay to see the sun set.

Getting there: Chinese airlines fly to Guilin from all over China and from Hong Kong.

There are two flights a day toor from Hong Kong, one on Dragon Air (a subsidiary of Cathay Pacific). The airport, less than two years old, is a modern, Western-style structure. A new high-speed road connects the airport to town in about 20 minutes. A taxi downtown to a hotel costs about $12. The CAAC bus costs $2.40 and goes to the booking office; from there, a taxi to a hotel costs about $2.40.

Li River cruise: About 70 government-owned boats cruise the Li River, carrying about 100 passengers each. Of these, 30 to 35 boats are designed for foreign tourists and must have air conditioning and heat. The boats have indoor seating at tables with windows on all sides, as well as ample outdoor deck space with no seating.

For American tourists, most boat trips are arranged by the China International Travel Service, which has the clout to get the best boats on the river. Individuals can book at the service's office near the Sheraton.

The boat trip costs about $60, including transfers from Guilin and lunch. The food on board our CITS-arranged boat was adequate and safe. But the wise tourist will bring a sandwich from the hotel breakfast buffet and spend lunchtime on deck with the scenery.

Accommodations: The five-star, 430-room Sheraton is right on the Li River, across the street from the popular night market and a block from Elephant Trunk Hill -- perfectly located for a pleasant night stroll. Call 800-325-3535. The standard double rate is $110 plus a 15 percent tax and service charge. The riverview rate is $130 plus the 15 percent.

The four-star, 259-room Holiday Inn is set on lovely Banyan Lake across from a lakeside park, with karsts in the background. It is in a pleasant neighborhood, a 15-minute walk from the night market. Call 800-465-4329. The standard double rate is $110 plus a 15 percent tax and service charge.

I can't recommend the second five-star hotel in Guilin, the 335-room Royal Garden, located a bit out of town (rate $110 plus 15 percent). A well-traveled couple stayed there last October and reported it to be poorly maintained and inconveniently located.