Author: By Dave Stephens and Susan Randles, Globe Correspondents

Date: SUNDAY, February 7, 1999

Page: M12

Section: Travel

HAMILTON, Bermuda -- It was our first outing on our motor scooter.

We watched the moving colors in the azure waters of the ocean surrounding the islands. We were overcome with the array of tropical birds, flowers of every hue, the deep green of the cedar trees, and hedges of vibrant oleander waving in the breeze.

As we pulled off at a corner store to check our map, a distinguished gentleman approached to offer assistance. This gesture reminded us, once again, that we were welcome in Bermuda.

During our brief conversation we discovered that the man we spoke to was the former minister of tourism, the Honorable ``Jim'' Woolridge. Whether it is a member of Parliament or one of the friendly bus drivers, seemingly every Bermudian invites visitors to share their paradise. Joy, cleanliness, charm and comfort are the godesses of this connected series of islands.

The wide expansive pink beaches and small hidden coves provide a standing invitation for a frolic in the blue-green waves or a lazy recline on the coral sand, velvet underfoot and likened to golden granulated sugar. This seaside image is enhanced by the purr of the surf, the blue sky, and a sense of peace.

Just 21 miles long, Bermuda is surrounded by protective coral reefs that lure ocean-lovers into the natural sea gardens. If you want to come nose to nose with the friendly multicolored fish, the clear waters provide the perfect setting. Many snorkelers love Church Bay, a sheltered cove that attracts fish into the shallow turquoise waters of the rocky graded ledges.

The deserted Railway Trails provide another option for seeing the ``other side'' of Bermuda. Rare glimpses into private gardens behind stately homes are viewed from these well-marked pathways. As you stroll, bike, or jog through deep limestone rock cuts, canopes of arching trees loom overhead, enhancing the ocean vistas.

Our return visits to Bermuda always include a stop at the everchanging Bermuda Aquarium and Zoo, and the Crystal Caves, where you can roam in caverns of delicate stalagmites and stalactities on a pontoon bridge. The forts of Bermuda, once part of a proud protective system of the British Empire, are stategically positioned high up on cliffs overlooking the crashing surf.

Hamilton, St. Georges, and Somerset, the three main centers in Bermuda each have their own unique shopping areas. From English bone china, Irish linen, exotic French perfumes and high fashion clothes to magnificent creations by Bermudian artists, there is something for everyone.

Bermuda offers a wide variety of good-quality accommodations. Old Bermuda residences have been modernized into charming guest homes. If you prefer a more private lifestyle while on the islands, there are a variety of lovely vacation apartments. Most have a pool and all are near beaches. We like Robin's Nest and Astwood, each of which displays its own character. The peaceful atmosphere of a more intimate accommodation seems to enhance the desire for an evening swim in a moonlit pool as palm trees sway to the songs of miniature tree frogs.

There are a number of resort hotels that offer a variety of facilities, including pools, sports, excellent restaurants, nightclubs, and shops. The first hotel in Bermuda, the Princess, has undergone extensive renovations throughout the last 110 years. Situated on the harborfront in Hamilton, it is within walking distance of the fine shops on Front Street. Following a stroll through the beautiful gardens overlooking Hamilton Harbour, take a dip in either the freshwater or saltwater pool.

This pastel pink hotel offers excellent restaurants, including the British-style Colony Pub, the poolside Harley's Bistro, and the elegant gourmet Tiara Room.

Its sister hotel, the Southampton Princess, is on the south shore, where you will find some of the finest beaches in the world. The hotel has its own private beach nestled in a translucent cove. It also has a challenging 18-hole, par 3 golf course, 11 tennis courts, and scenic walking trails, all of which are shared with guests at the Hamilton Princess. Our stay at the Princess was highlighted by a friendly, competent staff.

Temperatures average between the mid 60s to the mid 70s during the low season, from November to March.

A uniquely Bermudian accommodation is a cottage colony. In this setting, a central clubhouse with a dining room and lounge is surrounded by cottage units that respect your privacy in a pampered atmosphere.

Cambridge Beaches is the most elegant of these cottage colonies, set on its own 25-acre peninsula. The property offers casual elegance, including breakfast served on a private terrace, terry robes, five beaches, and spacious cottages with spectacular views. The Tamarisk Dining Room, decorated with crystal chandeliers, features gourmet food. Each evening meal is accompanied by live musical entertainment. Drinks and dinner are also served on the terrace overlooking Mangrove Bay where the pink linen tablecloths blend with the nightly sunset.

A relatively new addition for those who love pure luxury is the European Health and Beauty Spa, which offers treatments and therapies.

Transportation in Bermuda is efficient and comfortable. Taxis are clean with courteous drivers, the pink and blue buses are extremely punctual, and the ferry services provide passengers with a panoramic view of the Great Sound. As cars cannot be rented in Bermuda, we recommend renting a motor scooter. Even though you have to drive on the left side of some very narrow roads, the 20 m.p.h. speed limit helps to maintain a sense of security. The cycle livery provides a lesson for first-time scooter and moped drivers.

Restaurants of excellent quality are renowned in Bermuda. We would like to dispel the myth that all the eating establishments are expensive. Reasonable prices can be found in a number of restaurants, our favorite being La Trattoria in Hamilton.

Half of Bermuda's tourism industry is based on returning visitors. This is mainly because of the gracious and civilized people of Bermuda. The natural beauty of the islands, the atmosphere of peace, and the aromatic scent of frangipani, hibiscus and oleander will linger on in the minds and souls of those who have fallen in love with this country.

Bermuda, less than two hours from Boston, will lure you back again and again. It's a year-round paradise.

Call the Princess Hotels at 800-223-1818 for details on off-season rates.

For reservations or information on Cambridge Beaches call 800-468-7300; Astwood Cove 800-441-7087; and Robin's Nest 800-223-6510.

To book a ``Longtail'' cruise, call 809-236-4482; for a reservation at LaTrattoria Restaurant, 809-295-8974.

To book a moped or scooter from Wheels Cycle, call 809-295-0112.