It's a big world after all

Author: By Jerry Morris, Globe Staff

Date: SUNDAY, November 17, 1996

Page: M1

Section: Travel

I wanted to try the Alien Encounter and return to the Tower of Terror. She declined the tower. ``I don't like elevators that suddenly drop.''

But, I said, ``It now drops three times -- all the more exciting.''

She declined again.

We didn't get to ride the tea cups; it was raining. But we did have our thrills on Splash Mountain and Big Thunder Mountain Railroad. And, we did have an encounter with the alien that escapes during a space transfer.

Disney World is one of those places that you can return to again and again to find new things to do and enjoy old favorites.

Laura is quite grown up now, but the rides she still enjoys the most are the ones we first tried in 1973, two years after Disney World opened on Oct. 1, 1971.

Disney World 1996 is a whole new world -- many new worlds, in fact. Visitors during this silver anniversary will find so many new things to do and see and places to stay that they just might never enter the Magic Kingdom, the first fantasy world in the heart of Florida.

The magic that Walt Disney created then hasn't diminished, but for the new visitor, I fear, there are just too many choices. In '73 and again in '78, when our family had grown to six and we all wore Morris (the cat) backpacks so as not to get lost in the crowds, the biggest decision was how to use our ride coupons. Fortunately, Disney has long since dropped those tickets that ranged from A to E (we always seemed to have more A tickets for the less exciting rides than E's ) for a one-price-covers-all admission.

For its 25th anniversary, which continues throughout 1997, Disney is celebrating with a grand party called ``Remember the Magic'' to showcase new attractions and resorts and bring back memories.

There's no mistaking the party atmosphere when you look at Cinderella's castle, which has been redone as a giant birthday cake with lots of shocking pink, as Disney rekindles its magic for a whole new generation and interests. Just as Laura has grown into womanhood, Disney World has grown up, too, but not aged. The world is as fresh today as it was 25 years ago.

Now, visitors' decisions involve how much time to spend at Epcot, the world complex, or the MGM-Studios, all included in a World Passport that gives admission to each of the parks. But there's more, and more coming.

New attractions in the existing parks include Mickey's Toontown Fair, the first new land in the Magic Kingdom in a decade. Here, visitors will find cute little homes for Donald Duck, Pluto and others as well as a country house for Mickey and a bungalow for Minnie (it's really time for Disney to do more for Minnie, she's been in Mickey's shadow too long). Inspired by recent movies is Ariel's Grotto, where youngsters can chase arcs of water that fly over a bed of sea sponges. There's even a family coaster ride called the Barnstormer.

For entertainment, there's a new IllumiNations 25 evenings at the World Showcase Lagoon at Epcot Center that ends with a dazzling show of fireworks and laser beams to the music of ``The Circle of Life'' from ``The Lion King.'' At the Disney-MGM Studios, there's a lively 32-minute performance of ``The Hunchback of Notre Dame, A Musical Adventure.''

In the Village Marketkplace, Disney souvenir shoppers will have a field day at the world's largest Disney Store -- the store is said to be just 10 yards short of a football field. Here, too, is the Rainforest Cafe, located inside a tropical rain forest.

And what is Disney World without a parade? For its anniversary year, Disney offers ``Remember the Magic,'' an all-new parade in the Magic Kingdom featuring all the Disney characters and visitors alike. The parade constantly stops, and viewers are encouraged to join hands and dance with the characters, even play games with them. If you happened to stop by the Welcome Center at the Kingdom's entrance, you just may win a chance to join the parade as an honored guest.

Opening next spring is Disney's Wide World of Sports, a 200-acre complex that will include a 7,500-seat ballpark (the future spring training site of the Atlanta Braves), four additional ball fields, an 11-court tennis complex, four softball fields, beach volleyball courts and more. Also opening in spring at Epcot Center will be General Motors' Test Track, where guests will be able to test vehciles in banking, braking, hill climbs and at speeds pushing 65 m.p.h. The nearly mile-long track will provide climbs, spirals and even a loop around the building through areas that simulate Arctic cold and desert heat.

When it first opened, the world was simpler -- there was just the Magic Kingdom. Now there are many worlds within the huge 30,000-acre Walt Disney World Resort. For visitors today, Disney World is almost beyond imagination -- there is too much to see, to do, to explore. A visit calls for planning, budgeting and lots of decision-making -- where to stay, dine, what attractions to see. While Disney touts its extensive transportation system -- monorails, boats, buses -- it takes time, and there are delays in getting from Point A to Point B. So planning your time in this magical place is a key to enjoying it.

In the beginning, Disney World seemed more for children. I never have forgotten thinking then that it was a costly vacation for us, then bumping into a young boy who just had to tell me what a great place it was. And you know, he was right. The cost then, as now, does seem high, but the entertainment, spotless worlds, friendly staff and endless memories make Disney World a vacation of great value.

Today's Disney World is for all ages and interests. For instance:

-- It has s become a honeymoon haven, even a place for marriages (you can ride in Cinderella's carriage to the altar, or, as one couple did, take your vows as the Tower of Terror's elevator takes one of its freefalls).

-- It's a golf haven, with six courses and 99 holes.

-- It's a learning experience . At the Disney Institute, meanwhile, you can gain new skills, from cartooning and rock climbing to genealogy and gourmet cooking classes.

-- It's a grand place for night owls with its nightly New Year's Eve festivities and clubs at Pleasure Island.

-- And it's a place of discoveries. At Epcot, there is Future World, which focuses on discovery and scientific achievements, and the World Showcase, where you can explore the wonders, tastes and music of 11 nations. There's even a working TV and movie complex within the Disney-MGM Studios theme park. Adding to the fun are three water theme parks -- River Country, Blizzard Beach and Typhoon Lagoon.

That the man who brought us a mouse named Mickey could have created all this in central Florida out of swamps and old orange groves would have seemed almost impossible when the idea for Disney World first was announced in the late '60s. Walt Disney, having created Disneyland in California, found that park soon enclosed by a wall of new enterprises that both prevented its growth (until now: Plans were recently approved for a billion-dollar expansion) and, to Disney, took away some of the magic of the park.

Secretly, Disney purchased more than 50 square miles of central Florida, an area greater than Manhattan, for his new dream. Disney World's success has brought unbelievable growth to the Orlando area, making it the No. 1 vacation destination in the world. While there are now many other worlds outside the gates -- ranging from Sea World and Universal Studios Florida to China and many themed attractions -- the new growth within Disney World makes this a world unto itself, with little need for the visitor to explore -- or afford -- much that is outside the resort grounds.

On our early visits, our lodging was simple to choose -- the Contemporary, the Polynesian or Camp Wilderness. We enjoyed all of them, even camping in our own trailer at Camp Wilderness (Disney only allowed five to a room, but our family of six could stay in one trailer at the camp).

Now, the choices within Disney World are almost endless. The new BoardWalk resort has accommodations ranging from deluxe guestrooms to two-story garden suites to 532 units designed for the Disney Vacation Club timeshares that include suites with two rooms (the living room has a sofa bed), a huge bath with a separate whirlpool tub big enough for two, a full kitchen, a laundry area, a couple of TVs, VCRs, an iron and ironing board and a vacuum cleaner. There is even room service so you don't have to do a thing.

The resort, designed to recall nostalgic days at the seashore, is a small world to itself, with recreation facilities ranging from a huge free-form pool area with a 200-foot water slide in the form of a classic wooden roller coaster to tennis courts, a health club and a grass croquet court.

Along its waterfront boardwalk are a sports club, dance club with live music from the '40s to the '90s, a night club called Jellyrolls, with dueling pianos, restaurants, shops, a brew pub, a bakery and ice cream shops.

Disney accommodations now also include many rooms that cost below $100 a night, such as those at the All Star Sports or Music resorts. While there are thousands of good choices for lodging off the resort grounds, staying within the grounds has its advantages: free transportation between resorts and parks, and a place to return to, especially in summer, to relax or freshen up in the pool before tackling another attraction.

Disney World is not without its critics. Many feel it is a plastic world, without any real substance, and that it is too costly a vacation.

Disney World is indeed a fantasy one, but it does offer educational and worldly experiences in easy-to-take doses. There is no other place in the real world where within a week one can be introduced to so many of the sights and sounds of worldly experiences that just may encourage more extensive travel to the ``real place.'' And, while Disney World does present a nostalgic view of ``old times,'' it does so in an atmosphere that is safe, spotlessly clean and pleasant -- something that cannot be said of many other destinations. Disney World is costly, but I've never felt cheated on what my dollars bought.

I'll be back. Next time I'll go in for a little learning at the Disney Institute, then head for the soon-to-be-built Test Track, then catch a show or two. . . .

Disney World -- it's even better the second, third or fourth time around.

It is located at Lake Buena Vista, Fla., 20 miles southwest of Orlando.

The resort is open year round. Closing hours vary by season, with longer hours in summer and during holiday periods.

The best value for park admission is a multiday Park-Hopper passport that allows unlimited entry to the three theme parks. The price for adults is $144, and for children ages 3-9, $115 (all prices are plus tax).

Those staying at a resort within Disney World might consider a five-day World Hopper passport that also includes unlimited admission to the water parks and Discovery Island, an 11-acre zoological park. Adults, $196; children 3-9, $157.

A good investment is to purchase a book or CD-ROM on Disney World for planning. There are both ``official'' and ``unofficial'' guides to Disney World. The Walt Disney World Explorer is a CD-ROM that not only covers everything available at the resort but also is packed with videos and behind-the-scenes action.

One thing to pack for any visit is a good pair of walking shoes. You will do a lot of walking.

For information on planning a Disney World visit, see a travel agent and ask about packages available that include air fare, lodging and any extras. Until recently, many visitors sought accommodations outside Disney World where reasonably priced lodging could be found. Within the last two years, Disney opened both the All Star Sports and Music resorts, both with rooms priced from $69 a night. The park now offers a wide range of accommodations in all price ranges including a campground with full hookups. Some lodgings include full kitchens.

Since Disney World attractions are spread out within the grounds, staying at a Disney World resort offers two advantages: free transportation to other resorts and attractions; and a comfortable and convenient place to take a break. (Disney World, while not boring, can be tiring.) All the Disney resorts have individual swimming pools and other recreation facilities.

Reservations for Disney accommodations can be made through a travel agent or by calling (407) W-DISNEY between 8:30 a.m. and 10 p.m. Eastern time.

For the holiday season, Disney World goes all out with its festivities. At the Disney-MGM Studios, Arkansas businessman Jennings Osborn's famed display of more than 3 million lights will again cover the studio's Residential Street and New York Street backlot. Osborne gained world fame for his Little Rock home display, which did not please neighbors because of traffic. Last year he moved the display to Disney World and is back again this year.

Throughout the other parks, there will be shows such as Holidays Around the World at Epcot, a retelling of the Christmas story in the annual Candlelight Processional begining Nov. 29-Dec. 24, as well as other events. For information on holiday festivities and other special events, write to Walt Disney World Guest Information, PO Box 10,040, Lake Buena Vista, FL 32830-0040; telephone (407) 824-4321.