Goodbye to old Macao
China will soon recover the city once thought so wicked

Author: By Jim Budd, Globe Correspondent

Date: SUNDAY, January 17, 1999

Page: M19

Section: Travel

In 1997, all eyes were on Hong Kong as a century-and-a-half under British rule came to an end.

This December, it will be the turn of neighboring Macao, the colony Portugal has governed on the China coast since 1557. If Hong Kong, on the other side of the Pearl River estuary, 40 miles to the east, is any indication, about the only change will be the flag flying over the tiny enclave. Even so, if you have a chance, this is the year to visit Macao.

Although it has its own airport, most visitors zip over to Macao aboard one of the many ferries from Hong Kong, a voyage that takes about an hour. And most people go for only a day, which really is not enough.

For such a tiny spot, Macao has a distinct, fascinating personality. It is about the only place in the neighborhood where you can watch Asians perform European folk dances or wager a week's pay on the throw of the dice.

Casinos and other naughty goings-on once gave Macao a reputation for being the most pernicious, depraved city on the far side of the Pacific. Hollywood delighted in producing films about its wicked, wicked ways, but the sinful past is just a memory now. The casinos, to be sure, still thrive, and ladies of the evening may hover by the roulette tables, but vice has lost some of its allure as the end of the millennium approaches.

Macao has other charms.

These include hotels like the Bela Vista and the Sao Tiago, true corners of Portugal in Asia, as well as a Westin, a Hyatt, and a Holiday Inn. Rooms at these will cost about $200 US. Other, quite pleasant accommodations are available in the $100 range. Macao is much less expensive than Hong Kong. And since a service charge is added to the bill, no tipping is required.

The now somewhat shaky Hong Kong dollar is the currency everyone seems to use in Macao. Supposedly, there is a Macao pataca, worth the same as a Hong Kong dollar, but I never saw one.

Rather surprising are all the travel formalities involved in moving between Hong Kong and Macao. Passports are required although Americans need no visas to visit either city. Customs and immigration must be cleared when entering Macao and then upon returning to Hong Kong.

Of course, that adds to the illusion of being someplace exotic.

I took a taxi from the ferry terminal to the Sintra, a modestly priced downtown hotel, checked in, and set out to see the sights, making my way to the Largo Senado (``Senado'' being city hall). The Largo is the plaza, paved in wavy mosaic with a fountain in its center and outdoor cafes on its edges. Very European, but the Orient is never far away.

Over in Hong Kong, the shops in commercial centers that made up the lobbies of skyscrapers were twins of what you find at an American mall. Macao has its skyscrapers, too, but they appeared to be strictly office towers. The little stores near the Largo were far more fascinating.

Also, they offered some unusual yet inexpensive gift items. ``Paper stores'' sell paper replicas of items local folk (and others, too) would like to take to the next world. These include wads of fake currency (``hell money''), replicas of houses (mansions, naturally), cars (Mercedes, Rolls Royce, BMW), and other toys. The idea is to burn these items, making them available in the life to come.

Clothing can be a good buy. Big spenders are tempted by Chinese antiques, which probably are reproductions, and by jewelry. Being very capitalist, at least for the moment, Macao believes in letting the buyer beware. Remember that!

The big tourist attraction is the one remaining wall of the Church of St. Paul, which was built by Japanese Christians in 1602 but destroyed by fire in 1835. It is on the plaza in front of the church that the Chinese inhabitants of Macao perform Portuguese folk dances.

There are other temples, including Kun Lam, which is Buddhist, and the Taoist Ma Temple. In Cantonese, that is ``Ma Gau,'' which gave Macao its name. I was more fascinated by the Portas do Cerco, an imposing stucco gateway that leads into China itself. Tours across the line are available.

The best place to get a bird's-eye view of the entire colony is from its highest point, Lighthouse Hill.

Macao takes great pride in its gastronomy, especially what has come to be called Macanese cuisine, which blends the foods and spices the settlers brought with them from Europe, Africa, Brazil, and Malaya. ``Galinha africana,'' which is chicken baked with saffron, and ``minche,'' minced meat served with fried potato and onion, have much to recommend them. Then there are the classic Portuguese dishes themselves, such as ``Caldo verde'' and ``Bacalhau.''

Nice, too, is the way the wine served with meals in Macao is the most reasonably priced in the Orient. What we might call the historic center has any number of good restaurants, especially along Rua de Cunha. Worth a special trip is Fernando's out near Hac Sa Beach.

The beaches are out on the islands, Taipa and Coloane, reached by a magnificent new bridge. This is suburban Macao, where the racetracks, golf links, and modern resort hotels are located. For travelers who choose to linger, the islands are a nice place to be. Macao is about on the same latitude as Hawaii.

The weather is best during those months. On weekends, crowds of gamblers from Hong Kong fill the hotels, and even with 100 sailings per day, at times there is no room on the ferries. Fares, which range from $20 to $35 US, are highest on weekends, and this is when hotels charge the most.

A helicopter flight from Hong Kong costs $150 US but provides a marvelous view of the harbor. Taxis with meters are plentiful and inexpensive. Mokes, sort of four-wheeled scooters, can be rented for about $50 a day; a valid driving license is required. Several companies offer a variety of Macao sightseeing trips as well as excursions into China.

For more information, write to the Macao Government Tourism Office, 5757 West Century Boulevard No.660, Los Angeles, CA 90045-6407; call 310-670-2234; or fax 310-338-0708.