Author: By Adam Pertman, Globe Staff

Date: SUNDAY, November 8, 1998

Page: M1

Section: Travel

You settle into a chaise longue, shielded from the blazing sun by one of the scores of brightly colored umbrellas that form a rainbow down the beach. It's a great spot, because you can take in the stunning view while keeping an eye on your kids playing in the azure sea a few feet ahead. And you can do that even as you consider whether to bargain a little with one of the vendors strolling by with potential souvenirs, including hand-made hammocks, summer dresses, shorts, T-shirts, and pearls that may or may not be real.

Now you're hungry, though. You want to try some of that red snapper, caught locally just a few hours earlier, that you noticed on the grill as you took the short walk from your rental car to your little oasis in the sand. But you don't want to move the children and, frankly, you don't feel much like moving yourself, either. So what's a luxuriating vacationer to do?

Simple. Flag down the waiter wandering nearby and ask for a menu. As your food is prepared, he and a couple of fellow restaurant workers will bring out a table, place it directly in front of you, cover it with a crisp, white cloth, unfold some chairs, and serve your meal, seaside, a few minutes later.

This, as they say, is the life.

Indeed, even though there are lots of other visual, recreational, and historic delights on Margarita Island (including an extensive flea market and several forts from which the locals used to fight pirates), beaches are probably the best reason to come. They are certainly the main attraction for well-to-do Venezuelans, who for decades have flocked to this Caribbean resort about 20 miles off their country's coast.

There are secluded beaches like Punta Arenas on the island's western tip, with golden sand on which you can lie undisturbed and watch young fishermen bring in their daily catch by hand, one fish at a time, and plop the critter on an old scale at the small restaurant a few dozen feet offshore.

There are small beaches like Guacuco on the eastern end, where perhaps a dozen colorful hammocks hang invitingly from the palms near a couple of kiosks that sell pasta and fresh fish; and there are large beaches like Playa Caribe in the north, which boasts a modern ``club'' that offers boat trips, live music, and flights on ultralight planes.

There are beaches that are developed and undeveloped, bustling and remote. And then there's El Yaque, on the south coast, which is one of the world's premier parasailing spots. Its perfect breezes and open seas are a magnet for professionals, but it's also a lovely place just to hang out, picnic on the beach, and maybe even learn parasailing.

Nearly all the beaches except those on the western side, which is called the Macanao Peninsula and contains a national park -- in which there's a beautiful, extensive mangrove swamp through which you can take a boat ride -- have hotels right on them or very nearby. Moreover, construction all over the island is booming, partly with condos and time-shares that are available for rent, but also for the growing number of Latin and South Americans who are building their equivalents of Cape Cod or Martha's Vineyard vacation homes.

It's easy to foresee a time, not many years ahead, when Margarita will become yet another slick island destination, striving for perfection in every detail. The island's not there yet, however; some sites, like the centuries-old forts, are barely maintained, and it doesn't take a very long ride along any side road to glimpse the poverty in which many of the locals still live.

Still, those are issues in any Third World destination, and increased tourism income will certainly lead to improvements. In the meantime, Margarita already has its share of good restaurants, as well as a couple of McDonald's restaurants and a Cheers for those longing for a taste of home; a lively night life consisting mainly of dining, discos, and dancing; and plenty of enticing tourist attractions. In sum, it's an appealing place for vacationers looking for someplace more rustic, less developed, and with a bit more edge than many of its Caribbean competitors.

``We are located in such a beautiful place with so many activities available,'' said Andre Sidi, owner of the Five Star Connection tour operator adjoining the luxurious Hilton Hotel here. ``But so many people, especially in the United States, still do not seem to know much about us.''

That clearly is changing: As Sidi spoke, he leafed through a fax he'd just received from a travel agency in Boston, inquiring about tours for a group from Massachusetts. It's still true, however, that American agencies typically have little information even about long-established accommodations and attractions on Margarita Island -- even as new places spring up without notifying their local chambers of commerce or foreign tourist bureaus.

All of which leads to some unusual advice about arranging for a trip here. That is, don't plan ahead too well.

Certainly, it's easy to book yourself into a major hotel like the Hilton, spend time by the elaborate pool, rent a car to run into town now and then, find a few good restaurants and beaches, and go home contented. But it might be more fun, and undoubtedly would be more adventurous, if, before leaving home, you reserve a room for only a few days.

Then take a six-hour tour of the island (which is available from travel agencies everywhere, either in small groups or big buses), during which you will not only preview the sights that you'll want to return to, but also will see all sorts of resorts with all-inclusive packages, including every meal and entertainment; beachside hotels with huge swimming pools and access to an array of water sports; and even private housing in pastel-painted fishing villages, though you should try this last option only if you speak Spanish. Pick a place, check it out, and, if you like the price, ambience, and amenities, move there a day or two later. Room costs range enormously, from as little as $50 to $200 or more a night.

Similarly, there are many excursions from Margarita to terrific nearby destinations that aren't listed by, or available through, travel agents in the United States. It's frequently cheaper to book them locally anyway, since you can shop around and negotiate with local tour guides once you're here; again, the prices vary enormously depending on the dollar-to-bolivar conversion rate, the individual tour operator, the time of year (high season or low), and your own ability to strike a bargain.

The excursions include inexpensive day trips such as catamaran rides to tiny Coche Island just south of Margarita, where there's a lovely beach and restaurant, good snorkeling, and parasailing; pricey fishing-boat charters that almost guarantee you'll return with a good catch; and even single or multiday packages to see other Caribbean islands, such as Grenada and Trinidad. For visitors who revel in natural beauty, though, two sites rise to the top like an ice cube in a tropical drink: Los Roques, a series of nearby keys with breathtaking virgin beaches and fabulous snorkeling; and Angel Falls, the world's highest waterfall.

Angel Falls is located in a rain forest on the Venezuelan mainland, and plane trips can be booked for a day, overnight, or longer. If you decide to stay, keep in mind that the habitat is decidedly unyuppified -- a hut in the jungle with meals that are often less than gourmet.

Ah, but the treks though creature-laden woods provide an adventure for the eyes and the ears, and the hikes to and behind the waterfall itself, through caverns and craggy (but safe) mountain paths, are spectacular. This probably isn't a journey for small children, though some high-energy parents have been seen carrying their toddlers in backpacks.

Margarita Island itself was discovered by Christopher Columbus in 1498; legend has it that he named it for the woman he loved but could not have: Princes Margarita of Austria. The island's original inhabitants, the Guaiqueri Indians, called their home Paraguachoa, or ``a place of abundant fishing,'' a description that remains accurate.

Based on Columbus' reports, Europeans started to emigrate to the area, drawn largely by the plentiful oyster beds and pearls, which they eventually depleted, and by the 16th century, Spanish settlers controlled the island.

To protect their sovereignty and their shipping lanes from pirates, Margarita's conquerers built a series of forts. Several are still standing and in relatively good condition, with displays inside of original firearms, swords, and suits of armor. They're a pretty cool way to spend a few hours, especially if you have kids.

A very different, but equally distinctive, attraction is the Virgin of the Valley Sanctuary, located in the tiny village of Valle del Espiritu Santo. By the way, the whole island is so small that driving from town to town, or even the entire perimeter of the place, takes only a half-day or so.

The church that houses the Virgin is painted a muted pink, and is surrounded by carefully tended greenery and flowers in the center of the picturesque town. The area around it is lined with kiosks selling freshly baked breads and pastries; and everything in the area looks as it probably did 100 years ago. Outside the church, elderly women sit at tables selling icons, scrolls containing biblical passages, and religious trinkets.

It's a captivating scene, but the most fascinating part of the place lies inside. The residents of Margarita are devoutly Catholic, and they believe the beautifully carved, life-sized statue of the Virgin, which has been housed inside the chapel here for more than a century, still performs miracles.

Several large rooms adjoining the chapel provide evidence of that belief: One is crammed with trophies from sports stars, tributes to the Virgin for the miracles she performed in allowing them to win. The walls of another room are filled with ornately inscribed plaques, some made of gold and silver, donated by successful businessmen, lawyers, journalists, and other professionals in gratitude for the divine assistance they say they have received.

And then there's the large main hall, called the Room of Miracles, that is lined with glass cases containing thousands on thousands of gold rings, pearls, amulets, and other valuable gifts and tributes. Most come from fishermen who believe they've been helped, but many also are brought in daily from other island inhabitants and from believers around the world.

One obvious frustration of traveling to a resort like Margarita Island, which isn't (yet) a big destination for English-speakers, is language. Unless you speak Spanish, it's sometimes tough to get directions on the street or questions answered at some restaurants and attractions.

The people are typically very friendly and eager to help, however, and the guides working for tourist agencies and on their own are terrific. Ours, a young man named Edwin Demey, was not only bright and personable but spoke English, Spanish, French, Italian, and Portuguese.

``If we want to get people from all over to come to see our wonderful island,'' he said, ``we have to be able to talk to them.''