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A vibrant, revitalized Miami
Past and present blend to create a diverse, distinct city
Author: By A. G. Luke, Globe Correspondent
Date: SUNDAY, November 16, 1997
Page: M15
Section: Travel
MIAMI -- Julia Tuttle persuaded Henry Morrison Flagler to extend his East
Coast railroad to Miami. When an initial land offer of 300 acres failed to
persuade Flagler to move south, fate seemed to intervene. A terrible freeze
almost wiped out Florida's new citrus industry in 1895. Tuttle then sent
Flagler a fresh bouquet of orange blossoms as evidence of Miami's ability to
deliver citrus to northern markets year round. The orange blossoms managed to
do what the land offer could not and Flagler's railroad steamed into a town a
year later.
You can appreciate Miami's evolution as a world-class urban center as you
observe the past and present merging almost everywhere in the city.
The Bayside Market Place, an active waterfront location has shops,
restaurants, live entertainment, and horse-drawn carriage rides.
The revitalized Art Deco District in South Beach, often referred to as
SoBe, has rebounded from a period of neglect and decay as entrepreneurs have
rehabilitated the pastel-hued hotels of the 1920s and '30s. In Miami, the
revitalized district has Art Deco and Streamline motifs adapted to the local
climate, blending classical design with tropical features.
Sherbert colors are associated with the district's renewal rather than
its origin, when white paint was commonplace. Marzipan-hued facades with
racing stripes, tubular railings, porthole windows, and abstract ornamentation
decorate the more than 800 noteworthy buildings in the mile-square area.
Along Ocean Drive, one can view the many three-story buildings with a
smattering of open-air cafes that enhance the cityscape.
This 80-square block community is the nation's youngest historic district,
having been listed on the National Register of Historic Places since 1979. The
geometric shapes and graceful curves are the hallmark of Art Deco, one of the
premier stylistic designs of the 20th century.
En route, you may pass a dramatic representation of a monument in mute
testimony to the anti-Jewish atrocities during World War II. The Holocaust
Memorial is a 42-foot-high bronze hand reaching skyward. The immense arm from
which it extends is tattooed with a number, as were concentration camp
victims, and embraced by 100 life-size figures.
At the entrance to Key Biscayne is the 35-acre Seaquarium where you can
observe marine life and exotic birds. Killer whale, sea lion, and dolphin
shows are among those that combine entertainment with education and run at
intervals throughout the day. Exhibits include a manatee breeding colony and
touch pools. The Seaquarium established the world's first and most prolific
manatee breeding program in a controlled environment. Twenty years after it
initially opened, the first manatee was conceived and born in captivity during
1975.
Across from the Seaquarium and overlooking Biscayne Bay is Vizcaya Museum
and Gardens. Completed at the end of 1916, it served as a winter residence for
American industrialist James Deering. ``Vizcaya'' is a Spanish Basque word
meaning ``high ground.''
Inspired by Italian villas of the 16th and 17th centuries, the 70-room
complex occupies 28 acres, 10 of which are formal gardens. The bayfront villa
has several gardens such as the Fountain Garden, with a 17th-century Baroque
Italian fountain at its center, surrounded by waterways leading to smaller
fountains. In addition, a Maze Garden, Theatre Garden, walled Secret Garden,
and a reflecting pool garden are all reminiscent of Renaissance Italian
estates.
The three-story, 34-room house features five centuries of antique
furnishings and art work. Vizcaya even had the installations of such
technological advancements as an elevator, central heating, a water sprinkler
system, and a telephone switchboard operator unit. This impressive palatial
museum is represented by four architectural styles with assorted ceiling
designs. East Loggia is an airy room with an Italian marble floor and an
expansive view of the bay, with the gold dome at the Seaquarium actually
visible.
Just south of Vizcaya is Coconut Grove, one of the oldest neighborhoods in
Miami. Its quaint red-brick sidewalks are illuminated by Victorian-style
street lamps. Situated in the heart of this vibrant district is CocoWalk, a
relatively new retail and entertainment center. Open-air bistros, outdoor
cafes, shops, and trendy nightclubs, all in a European village setting, exude
an enchanting and festive aura that has become the Grove's trademark.
A meander through Coral Gables, an exclusive residential enclave, is
essential for sightseers. Miles of waterways weave through this international
community. Imposing entrance gates and fountains create beguiling
beautification as behemoth Banyan, majestic poinciana, and lofty palm trees
frame the boulevard. It is a popular stretch in which to shop with the
attractive Spanish-Mediterranean architecture of the Coral Gables City Hall at
the famous Miracle Mile.
Enhancing the urban amenities is the 83 acres of tropical botanical
gardens. This natural treasure is the Fairchild Tropical Gardens, the largest
in the continental United States. The Venetian Pool, essentially a beautiful
swimming lagoon with caves, waterfalls, and arched bridges, is an attraction
in itself.
The diverse and distinct aspects of Miami can be experienced whether you
arrive for a lengthy visit or as an add-on to a cruise-ship excursion, since
many of the world's cruise lines use the Port of Miami.
SIDEBAR:
IF YOU GO . . .
Seaquarium -- open daily 9 a.m. to 6 p.m.; admission, adults $18.95,
children (3-9) $13.95.
Vizcaya Museum & Gardens -- open daily (except Christmas) 9:30 a.m. to 5
p.m.; gardens 9:30 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. Admission, adults $10, children (6-12) $5
Holocaust Memorial is at Dade Boulevard and Meridian Avenue.
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