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Tea rooms a hit in the Big Apple
New Yorkers sip the light fantastic, with a variety of offerings and styles
Author: By Erickson S. Blakney, Globe Correspondent
Date: SUNDAY, October 19, 1997
Page: M14
Section: Travel
NEW YORK -- I never really cared much for tea. Granted in kindergarten I was
bonkers for the little ditty about the tea-pot ``short and stout'' and the
interpretive dance that accompanied it, but beyond that, the thought of tea
bored me silly. I had heard all the arguments about the medicinal benefits,
the caffeine content, the fact that tea with companions is a delightful social
occasion. I wasn't buying it.
However, a slow but steady proliferation of tea rooms and salons in New
York City, a city where the coffeehouse culture reigns supreme, got me curious
enough to embark on a trek through the city's tea rooms.
Afternoon tea has a long history. It's said that Great Britain's Duchess of
Bedford began serving afternoon tea and sandwiches in the late 18th century as
a means to ease her hunger before the traditionally late formal supper.
Proper tea typically consists of a three-tiered plate of finger sandwiches,
fresh scones with clotted cream, preserves, petit fours, and, of course, a pot
of tea. But naturally here in Gotham, afternoon tea offers a delicious balance
of tastes ranging from the traditional to the exotic served in a variety of
venues. It is a great way relax and quietly socialize. And one can easily go
it alone or with a partner.
So, formerly a confirmed spirits man, I admit that tea is . . . well . . .
kinda cool! I'll now share with you some of the tea rooms I found most
intriguing.
Sleek in design, the Morgan Court Cafe in the Pierpont Morgan Library is a
bright and airy atrium lined with black olive trees and flowering vines
scaling its walls. Afternoon tea at Morgan Court is quiet, peaceful,
restorative. The tea selection is broad but not overwhelming. For snacking,
there are palate-pleasing a la carte items, but for $15 you can order high
tea, which follows the tradition of the three-tiered plate of delectables. A
person can visit Morgan Court after browsing the library's galleries, or if
you want to go strictly for tea, be sure to tell the folks at the front of
your intentions so you won't be charged admission. Morgan Court is at 29 East
36th St. at Madison Avenue; telephone (212) 685-0610.
In a handsome brownstone across from the Frick Collection, you'll find
Toraya, a Japanese confectionery and tea room. Though small with its
cherrywood and burled ashwood paneling, Toraya is one of the most
aesthetically pleasing tea rooms. It offers a cool tranquillity with its
precise yet simple design. The focal point in this skylit room is an urn
filled with freshly cut exotic flowers. Three types of tea are offered ($2.50
a pot): Sencha, a Japanese green tea; Hojicha, an aromatic roasted tea; and
Matcha, a rich powdered green tea. Available a la carte are light meals like
boiled rice balls with soy sauce. The tea sandwich platter is an attractive
arrangement of four finger sandwiches like smoked turkey with miso and wasabi
mayo and cream cheese and bean jam paste. Numerous wagashi or traditional
Japanese confections are available. Try zangetsu, a soft ginger-flavored
pancake folded over an filling. An is a sweet paste of red or white azuki
beans, a main ingredient in wagashi. Toraya is at 17 East 71st St. at Madison
Avenue; (212) 861-1700.
The Tea Box at Takashimaya is another great spot for afternoon tea.
Takashimaya is an ultra-upscale Japanese department store offering everything
from details for the wardrobe, such as $300 cufflinks, to items for your
terrace, such as a $1,300 cast-iron urn. Thankfully, tea is a little more
accessible at $3.50 a pot. There are about 38 to choose from. A la carte
sweets like butter cookies, french patries, and mousses range from $3 to $6.
The East-West afternoon tea for $14 includes an absolutely beautiful
arrangement of pastries, cookies, fresh fruit, and finger sandwiches.
Sandwiches range from salmon on pressed rice to vegetable spring rolls in
rice paper. The room is uninspiring but comfortable. Afterward, check out the
tea and specialty food shop. Tea is served from 3 to 5 p.m. during the week
and Saturday and until 7 p.m. on Thursday. The Tea Box, 693 Fifth Ave. at 54th
Street; (212) 350-0100.
Once you pass through the doors of Anglers & Writers in the West Village,
you immediately feel as though you've entered a Midwestern fishing lodge.
Accented with fishing gear, books, and gently weathered mismatched furniture,
Anglers is the creation of Wisconsin native Craig Bero. Rustic, charming and
casual, Anglers becomes all the more welcoming when the late afternoon sun
casts its warm glow through the windows. Tea is served from about 3 to 7 p.m.
There are some 15 teas to choose from at about $2 a pot. Fresh-baked fruit
scones and desserts start at $1.75. Traditional high tea ($12) is quite a
hearty experience and maybe even a little too hearty: open-face sandwiches of
curried chicken, seafood, salmon with capers, caprese with a dollop of pesto,
scones, and, to finish, apple crumble. Anglers, 420 Hudson St. at St. Luke's
Place; (212) 675-0810.
Tucked away on a quiet, tree-lined, Upper East Side street stands the
Lowell, a handsome little white-glove hotel. Tea is served from 3 to 5 p.m. in
the Pembroke Room. The room is plush, elegant yet comfortable. It feels like a
private dining room. Luxuriant details include aromatic fresh-cut lilies, and
hand-painted Washington Pickard china. But one need not be intimidated: The
Pembroke Room draws a wide sort from attractive, informed women with their
Mikimoto pearls to travelers with backpacks. Also, the staff couldn't be more
welcoming and friendly. Naturally, tea is a little steeper in price, $4 for a
pot. There's an a la carte menu of bite-size crumpets, scones, and the like
for about $8. The traditional afternoon tea menu is $21. The Pembroke Room, 28
East 63rd St., at Madison Avenue; (212) 838-1400.
Located in Gotham's trendy Flatiron District, the T Salon & Emporium has an
incredibly extensive selection of teas. Here, light meals go beyond your basic
crumpet. Sandwiches and salads are offered. Try the salmon with cucumbers
served with mesclun salad ($9); it's pretty good. Following my sandwich, I
splurged and orderd a pastry plate ($6). The pastries were a little dry and
crumbly and the fruit out of season. The room is comfortable and appealing
with its whimsical blend of design influences: Victorian, Postmodern, Far
Eastern. Check out the second floor; it's home to the Emporium. There's a
selection of more than 350 teas to choose from and the accessories needed to
make the perfect pot, and gift baskets made to order. T Salon & Emporium is at
11 East 20th St. between Fifth Avenue and Broadway; (212) 358-0560.
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