The other side of Jamaica

The North Coast is becoming a haven for ecotourists

Author: By Lisa Matte, Globe Correspondent

Date: SUNDAY, April 19, 1998

Page: M5

Section: Travel

Welcome to the other side of Jamaica -- a place where river rafting and mountain hikes supplant sunfish sailing and beach walks. Where white sand beaches give way to lush tropical foliage and birdwatching replaces bikini-ogling.

Known for its spectacular sunsets and seven-mile beach in Negril or its internationally acclaimed reggae festival held each year in Montego Bay, Jamaica has long drawn visitors seeking sun, sand, and rum. Port Antonio on the island nation's northeast coast, however, has remained until recently an enclave for the rich and famous.

Silver screen legends Bette Davis, Ginger Rogers, and Errol Flynn once frolicked in Port Antonio. These days, Hollywood icons Charlton Heston, Eddie Murphy, and Denzel Washington are said to frequent the area. The Caribbean scenes in the Tom Cruise movie ``Cocktail'' were filmed on location at Dragon Bay -- a secluded villa hotel wrapped around a sparkling turquoise lagoon just a few miles from downtown Port Antonio.

In recent years, though, the Port Antonio region of Jamaica has become recognized as a premier ecotourism destination. Visitors travel from all over the world to explore the area's regal Blue Mountains, sparkling waterfalls, and tropical forests. Almost half the island's plant species are native, earning it the rank of fifth in the world for the most endemic plant species.

Many of Jamaica's 27 native birds nest in the Blue Mountains, including the Vervain Hummingbird, the second-smallest known bird in the world. Butterfly enthusiasts are drawn to the mountains in search of the giant swallowtail butterfly. That gossamer creature with a wingspanof up to six inches isn't found anywhere else in the world.

Mary Lou Callahan specializes in ecotourism to Port Antonio and its environs. The Rhode Island-based tour operator, president of Unique Destinations, says ecotourism is a natural result of growing environmental awareness among the general public.

``It's the fastest-growing market in all of tourism right now, but it's so misunderstood,'' Callahan says. ``A lot of people think ecotourism means taking a walk in the forest. It's so much more than that. It incorporates income generation for the community by hiring someone from the community. Ecotourism means using local people, helping the community, and helping the environment.

``Ecotours go beyond the usual boundaries of travel to foster exploration and discovery through cultural interaction, while emphasizing preservation and protection of the environment,'' she says.

Callahan says Valley Hikes, the organization I hiked with through the Rio Grande Valley, is a key example of responsible ecotourism. In fact, Lorenzo Hill -- the guide who shared that tasty grapefruit with me -- is one of her favorite guides in the area.

A native of the region, Hill has Jamaican roots dating to the Maroons -- runaway slaves who established mountain villages and fiercely defended their territory against the advances of 17th-century British soldiers. A mid-18th-century treaty settlement eventually led to peace, and today many descendants of the Maroons remain in the Rio Grande Valley, where the legend of their forefathers' bravery remains a proud legacy.

As we hiked along a meandering trail skirting the Rio Grand River, Hill pointed out interesting plants and trees, many of which are used by the Maroons as herbal remedies for a variety of ailments. He said that a beverage made from Joseph's Court -- a trailside shrub with bright red-orange foliage -- eases the symptoms of the common cold. ``You boil it with salt and sugar, then drink it as a tea,'' Hill said.

Continuing along the trail, Hill identified marigold, cocoa beans, and hibiscus, describing each plant's practical use. High in vitamin C, red hibiscus blossoms are brewed to soothe coughs and colds, while the plant's fresh leaves are used to make a calming tea said to promote sleep.

Later in the day, we caught up with Rufus Thaxter, another Valley Hikes guide, who was escorting a visitor from England along the trail. The friendly Brit said he sought out Valley Hikes because, after unwinding in Jamaica's tropical paradise for a few days, he decided it was high time to ``get out of the hotel and do something different.''

With Hill and Thaxter in the lead, our two groups strolled along the shaded trail together for a while, serenaded by the musically-talented among us intent on mastering the makeshift flutes Thaxter created by poking holes at strategic points along strips of reed. We bid goodbye to our British friend at a split in the trail where he and Thaxter decided to hike toward higher ground. Hill then led the rest of us across a crystal clear stream and up a gentle slope to the base of a sparkling waterfall where we soaked in a natural pool under a canopy of lush green foliage.

That afternoon, over lunch at Port Antonio's Hotel Mocking Bird Hill, proprietor Shireen Aga talked about the region's unique appeal. Sitting on a sunlit tile balcony surrounded by baskets of vibrant flowers, Aga said, ``Port Antonio is different from other resorts. We have beaches, but not a seven-mile beach. . . . To discover the heart and soul of Port Antonio, you need to get out and feel the place -- you need to sweat it and smell it. It's not like sitting on a bus and watching the view pass by.

``We offer a softer form of tourism based on our natural attractions,'' she said. ``We don't want to overtax the environment. We're in a lovely situation here because almost everything is in intact. Some of the world's best-preserved reefs are here. We make no false claims about an active night life. Night life here is of a more romantic kind. We like to reintroduce romance into the lives of the people who come here.''

Aga, who owns the Hotel Mocking Bird Hill with artist Barbara Walker, is a driving force behind the emergence of Port Antonio as an ecotourism destination. Both Aga and Walker practice what they preach when it comes to environmental awareness. The 10-room hotel features a solar water-heating system. Gentle trade winds whisper through open windows, keeping guest rooms comfortably temperate throughout the year.

After hiking through the Rio Grande Valley and swimming in the secluded lagoon at Dragon Bay, I decided it was time to head for the hills and get a panoramic view of the Port Antonio region. But rather than hike to the summit of the Blue Mountains, I elected to sign on for a downhill bike tour with Blue Mountain Tours Ltd.

We started out early in the day with a hearty breakfast at the base lodge before riding in a van to the top of the trail where we selected bikes and donned helmets. I get a little jittery at high altitudes, so I was a bit nervous about the excursion until we began our gentle descent along a winding paved road. Breathtaking views of the Blue Mountains and beyond greeted us at each turn. Our guide paused at one bend on the trail to point out the fertile valley that is home to world-renowned Blue Mountain Coffee.

And before we knew it, we were back at the base lodge, exhilarated by the excursion but amazed at the gentle nature of our adventure.

``Ecotourism means getting off the beaten path,'' says Callahan. ``It's not necessarily a strenuous vacation; it's a different vacation.''

While peak season -- meaning peak prices -- runs from mid-December through mid-April, Jamaica is increasingly recognized as a year-round destination. Temperatures throughout the year average between 75 and 85 degrees with cooling trade winds that make summer in Jamaica more comfortable than many traditional US vacation destinations.

For information on ecotourism in Jamaica, call Unique Destinations at 401-934-3398 or the Jamaica Tourist Board at 800-233-4JTB.

Telephone numbers of other places mentioned include Dragon Bay, 876-993-8514; Hotel Mocking Bird Hill, 809-993-7267; Valley Hikes, 809-993-3881; Blue Mountain Tours, 876-974-7078; and Rio Grande Rafting, 809-993-2871.