PEI, you've changed - but not where it counts the most

Author: By Richard P. Carpenter, Globe Staff

Date: SUNDAY, May 10, 1998

Page: M1

Section: Travel

But I would have needed new eyeglasses if I hadn't noticed some differences in this picturesque province in Atlantic Canada since I visited a few years ago. Change, as it must to all places, has come to Prince Edward Island.

Fortunately, for travelers -- and probably for residents, although a few might argue -- the changes appear to add to PEI's appeal without diminishing its considerable charm. A new nine-mile bridge -- a tourist attraction in itself -- whisks visitors onto the crescent-shaped island. Once there, they find new recreational areas, new accommodations, more entertainment, more shopping, and more dining. Why, even the venerable Anne of Green Gables homestead has taken on a new look.

The most noticeable addition is the 12.9-kilometer Confederation Bridge, which links PEI to Canada's mainland via New Brunswick. Opened just last June after an industrial-strength christening party, the bridge became a huge topic of conversation. The image of this engineering marvel appears on license plates, calendars, magnets, T-shirts (``That Big, Eh!'' says one), and even packets of

lupine seeds.

The bridge, which curves across the Northumberland Strait, cost $600 million, was completed in less than four years, and -- unthinkable in Massachusetts -- cost taxpayers nothing. Gone is the ferryboat service to and from New Brunswick, although you can still catch a ferry to the island from Nova Scotia.

My ride from Cape Tormentine, New Brunswick, to Borden-Carleton, PEI, was quick, smooth, and scenic, but not distractingly so. Although there is a panoramic view of the strait, 3 1/2-foot-high guardrails prevent drivers from seeing the water directly around them unless they're in a van or bus. In addition, there is a free pedestrian and bike shuttle, and drivers are available to take people with bridge phobia across. (There has been little call for that service.)

For islanders themselves, the Confederation Bridge took a bit of getting used to. At first, some would show up on the half-hour, just as if they were still taking the ferry. But the advantage of not having to wait became readily apparent. As one resident put it, ``You have no idea what this bridge means to us unless you missed the ferry on a hot day and had to wait around with two or three squalling kids!''

About 2,000 vehicles can cross in an hour, each taking about 12 minutes. Mostly because of the bridge, the island had a whopping 57 percent increase in tourism last year, for a grand total of 1.2 million visitors. And while that means more traffic, it doesn't necessarily mean jam-ups. During my early July visit, the traffic had spread itself thin over the 140-mile length of the island. PEI, in fact, is one of the few places where this scarred veteran of Boston traffic wars actually enjoys driving.

Once over the bridge and onto the island, you first encounter Gateway Village, a complex of shops and tourism services. It's well worth stopping here, and not only for those Canadian favorites, Cows ice cream and Tim Horton's doughnuts.

For one thing, visitors get an excellent introduction to Canada's smallest province by walking through ``Our Island Home,'' a free multimedia display about Prince Edward Island, its history, its people, its products, and even its music. A movie shows just how much work goes into catching lobsters -- and island fishermen haul in some 20 million pounds of them a year. Entertainingly presented statistics tell you that the island exports its famous potatoes to more than 40 countries and that PEI is nicknamed the ``Kentucky of Canada'' because of its extensive horse breeding. You learn that Prince Edward Island's stunning red soil gets its color from iron oxide. And you learn that more than three-fourths of residents were born on the island, that 60 percent of them live in rural areas, and that over 80 percent can trace their heritage to England, Ireland, Scotland, and Wales.

Also worth looking at is a monument honoring the more than 6,000 workers from around the world who helped build the bridge, including three who died during its construction. The display also pays tribute to the ferry that plied these waters for 80 years: ``The voyage is over, the anchor is down, but memories sail on.''

Armed with such knowledge (or even without it), it's easy to enjoy the rest of the island. There are all kinds of places to stay in: lower-cost motels, bed-and-breakfasts, the splendidly Victorian Dalvay-by-the-Sea within Prince Edward Island National Park, the Canadian Pacific's landmark Prince Edward Hotel in Charlottetown, and the island's newest accommodations: Inns on Great George, a delightful restoration on Charlottetown's historic Great George Street. (Historic indeed: It's the same street that Canada's Founding Fathers strode along in 1864 to reach Province House for meetings that resulted in the birth of a nation.)

The inns consist of about 35 rooms, suites, or apartments within five tastefully restored heritage buildings bearing such names as The Wellington and the Carriage House -- and wouldn't you just love to stay at something called the Witter-Coombs Prime Minister's Suite? The newest addition, the Pavilion, has 24 rooms and a lobby, complete with a Victrola and other old-time artifacts, where breakfast is served and where guests love to linger. If only such care went into the razzle-dazzle tourism clusters in the Charlottetown and Cavendish areas that began their sprawling growth in the 1960s.

Several other nice new inns and B & Bs have opened. Likewise, a new Holiday Inn Express is opening in Summerside, and the one outside Charlottetown is expanding, as is the Loyalist in Summerside.

New places to dine have sprouted in recent years, too, ranging from snackatoriums to elegant restaurants such as Seasons in Thyme. Formerly in the gorgeous but relatively remote village of Tyne Valley, Seasons is now on Water Street in Summerside, the island's second-largest city after Charlottetown. Luckily, owner/chef Stefan Czapalay has brought his award-winning style of cooking and presentation with him.

A pork dish that I ordered was so artfully arranged that I actually felt guilty digging into it (but was glad I did). An appetizer of mussels poached in white wine with herbs and spices made me feel as if I were tasting an entirely different species than the mussels I had dined on elsewhere the night before. Dishes such as chicken Alexander, pepper-seared pork, rosemary-scented char-broiled salmon, and pan-seared scallops are complemented by an extensive wine list. And, ah, the desserts -- choclolate pate with dark Belgian chocolate, a white-chocolate tower filled with fruit, classic creme brulee, and others.

Amid all this talk of the new, though, let's not forget the traditional lobster suppers, which are justly famous far beyond the island's shores. Lobsters, mussels, and so much more are served in church halls such as St. Ann's in St. Ann and St. Margaret's near Souris, in recreation centers such as New Glasgow Lobster Suppers, and in emporiums such as Fisherman's Wharf in North Rustico or Mick Murphy's in Summerside. To me, visiting Prince Edward Island without having a lobster supper is like going to Hong Kong and skipping the Cantonese food.

Island shopping opportunities have long been available, but these days they are even more so. In addition to centers such as the 90-store Confederation Mall in Charlottetown and little crafts shops seemingly everywhere, there are pleasant enclaves such as Peak's Wharf, also in Charlottetown, Spinnakers Landing in Summerside, and the steadily growing Victoria by the Sea, about a half-hour drive from Charlottetown.

At Victoria by the Sea, I watched lobstermen hoist traps, then headed for the Island Chocolates Co., where I found flavors such as coffee-kahlua and lemon-lime, as well as chocolates in the shape of neckties and maple leafs. As interesting as the candy, though, was a clipping of an article proclaiming that in a Canadian poll, 30 percent of those responding found chocolates better than sex.

Along with other shops, restaurants, and galleries, Victoria by the Sea has the Victoria Playhouse, the Hilary Price used-book store, and the newly renovated Orient Hotel, housing Mrs. Profitt's Tea Shop, a place that provides an elegant setting in which to reenergize yourself with tea and scones.

And speaking of energy, there are lots of ways to burn it off on the island. Among them: golfing at one of 11 courses (the newest being the Links at Crowbush Cove, which has just received a five-star rating in Golf Digest), swimming at the beaches (which offer your choice of pink or white sand), strolling in the parks, boating, kayaking, and hiking and biking.

One of the most encouraging trends on PEI and elsewhere in the Canadian Maritimes has been ``rails to trails.'' Railroads, which once dominated island transportation, are gone, and many of the paths the trains traversed are being converted to the winding 145-mile Confederation Trail. The trail is about two-thirds complete, with the project scheduled to finish in the year 2000. Bikers and hikers on PEI's gentle terrain will find wide paths, lots of scenery, ocean views, and breezes that just may waft away their worries.

Springing up along with the trails are bike rental shops and other services. One of the newest is Trailside Cafe & Adventures in Mount Stewart, at the apex of several popular and scenic trails. Owner Douglas Deacon (often seen in the company of his dog, Fred MacDonald) not long ago gave up the sedentary and food-filled life of a salesman. Instead, he devoted himself to converting what he calls ``the ugliest building in Mount Stewart'' into a cafe and bike-rental establishment. In the process, he lost 30 pounds.

Deacon provides maps and directions to at least a half-dozen nearby routes, including those offering views of spectacular sunsets and one that leads to the Medicinal Springs, so-called because some who have drunk of the waters claim cures. Others joke that the springs also provide eternal youth; I laughed at that but took a few sips just in case. The restaurant part of Deacon's operation, meanwhile, specializes in pastas and pizzas -- good for carbo-loading.

The variety of island entertainment has grown so much that nowadays all of summer comprises a festival of plays, music, and more.

There are old standbys such as the musical version of ``Anne of Green Gables,'' which will be playing for its 34th summer at the Confederation Centre of the Arts in Charlottetown. (There is also Anne's alter ego, the satirical ``Annekenstein'' at Myron's in Charlottetown.)

There are revivals, such as the musical ``Johnny Belinda,'' which will play its second consecutive summer, also at the Confederation Centre. The center plans four other productions this summer, and elsewhere there are lively musicals such as ``Maritime Star,'' in its second year at the two-year-old Harbourfront Jubilee Theatre in Summerside.

And there are constantly updated performances, such as ``A Long Way from the Road,'' which will be playing occasionally at various locations and featuring hilarious stories of island life told by humorist David Weale, with music and additional comments by Melanie Chaisson and Paul MacDonald.

There are more plays, concerts, dinner-theater performances, jazz and blues festivals, art exhibits, museums, ``ceilidhs'' that feature traditional music and story from the British Isles, and Highland and Celtic gatherings. If you stayed on PEI a month, you could easily go to a different event or attraction each day without repeating yourself.

There are pubs and such, too, including the Olde Dublin Lounge in Charlottetown, where singing while you sip is the specialty. For all ages, there is the 45-acre Woodleigh Replicas and Gardens in Burlington, with its 39 attractions, many of them small-scale replicas of Britain's architectural masterpieces. And for the youngsters, there are attractions such as the Royal Atlantic Wax Museum, Ripley's Believe it or Not Museum, and the Fantazmagoric Museum of the Strange and Unusual. You get the idea.

Finally, there is the fictional redhead who has had a very real cultural and economic impact on Prince Edward Island: Anne of Green Gables. Anne, of course, is the heroine of a series of novels by the island's literary lioness, the late Lucy Maud Montgomery. Anne's name and likeness are all over the island -- on gifts ranging from inexpensive bookmarks to big-buck dollhouses, on buildings such as the Green Gables Food Store and the Anne Shirley Motel, on jams and potato chips, and even on PEI license plates, although some residents reportedly have been trading theirs in for plates featuring the Confederation Bridge.

Anne-mania reaches its peak in Cavendish at the Green Gables House, the building that was little orphan Anne's home in the first novel. Each year, hundreds of thousands of visitors -- including many from Japan, where Anne is a folk heroine -- make the pilgrimage. And now there is even more to see.

There is the house itself, further restored after a small fire last year and providing a look into early-19th-century life, including the clothing, the artifacts, the creature comforts (or lack of them), and even the games. Upstairs is Anne's room. (``Look, dear,'' one mother was overheard saying, ``there's Anne's slate. Notice the crack from when she hit Gilbert Blythe over the head with it!'' And nearby are two walking trails, Anne's ``Haunted Wood'' and ``Lover's Lane.'' But now the grounds around Green Gables have been restored to the farmstead style of a century ago, complete with period farm implements. A large barn houses an interpretive area designed to enhance the Anne Experience.

Anne may have a rival of sorts, though. Filming has been going on for ``Emily of New Moon,'' a TV series based on another Montgomery heroine who is also an orphan. The series, which stars a talented island girl named Martha MacIsaac, is the first filmed entirely on Prince Edward Island. Supervising producer is Marlene Matthews, who was also behind the Emmy-winning ``Avonlea'' series that was shown in America on the Disney Channel.

``Emily'' souvenirs were already in evidence during my visit and no doubt have increased now that the series is being shown over the Canadian Broadcasting Corp. (Eventually, ``Emily'' should be shown in the United States, too.) So in this story about change, let's give Emily the last word on something I pray will stay the same forever: the beauty of Prince Edward Island.

``Such loveliness as this,'' she says in a Lucy Maud Montgomery novel, ``doesn't seem real.''

The toll for crossing the Confederation Bridge is about $22 US, and is paid when leaving the island via the bridge. And although most people arrive by car these days, there is something special about the first view of Prince Edward Island from a plane, with the soil and fields forming a quiltlike pattern of red and green. I still remember the gasp of delight from a group of Japanese visitors when the island came into view. Air Canada/Air Nova and Canadian Air/Air Atlantic fly to Charlottetown.

Residents will tell you that the best times to visit are in late June or in September. Most of the attractions are open, the weather is pleasant, and the summer crowds are absent. (Prince Edward's year-round population is about 135,000.) But, to me, any time you need a low-stress escape is a good time to visit.

Some addresses:

The Inns on Great George, 58 Great George St., Charlottetown; phone 800-361-1118 or 902-892-0606; fax 902-628-2079.

Seasons in Thyme, 644 Water St. East, Summerside; phone 902-888-DINE.

The Trailside Cafe & Adventures, Main Street, Mount Stewart; 902-676-3130; fax 902-892-7498; e-mail dbdeacon(at sign)peinet.pe.ca.

Confederation Centre of the Arts, 145 Richmond St., Charlottetown; 800-565-0278 or 902-566-1267.

Harbourfront Jubilee Theatre, 124 Harbour Drive, Summerside; 902-888-2787.