Unspoiled Dominica

The scenery is worth the challenge of getting around

Author: By Andreae Downs, Globe Correspondent

Date: SUNDAY, March 29, 1998

Page: M1

Section: Travel

This, our guide said, was one of the easier hikes in Dominica -- after such easily-accessible sights as Trafalgar Falls (a half-hour on well-maintained paths) and Emerald Pool (15 minutes on well-packed dirt steps). Since we were traveling with small children (3 and 5), we chose the easiest hikes -- skipping the six-hour scramble to Boiling Lake -- one of the largest such phenomena in the world -- or the daylong trek to the peak of one or the other of the two volcanoes.

Still, the hike to Middleham Falls was about the longest our 5-year-old could manage. Although it was supposed to take about 45 minutes each way, we about doubled the time, walking up and down steep paths and through ankle-deep mud, plantations of banana and grapefruit, and rain forest, where we heard the elusive Mountain Whistler.

Such ruggedness and has kept Dominica unspoiled. The difficulty of getting around was part of the price for spectacular scenery, virgin rain forest, clean rivers and lakes, and glimpses of two rare parrots -- the Imperial and the Red Necked, known only in Dominica.

The island now has paved roads around most of the craggy coastline, although driving still is an adventure -- with frequent potholes, banana trucks, goats, fallen coconuts, stretches of one-lane switchbacks, and precipitous shoulders. What's more, driving is done on the left, and the condition of roads into the mountains to some of the island's heralded sights is more suited for Jeeps than for the family sedan we chose, in part to have room for the children's car seats as well as luggage. But one can drive around the island in about six hours, if one doesn't stop for the sights or climb any of the mountains. We chose to take the island in smaller, more relaxed bits -- more suited to our children, who were as interested in swimming pools as in mountain pools.

During several of our stops, we took in some snorkeling off the beaches -- Picard in the north and Soufriere Bay in the south. We were told by those who traveled unencumbered that the diving is also marvelous, the reefs mostly intact and undisturbed.

Two spectacular hikes that our children were able to manage alone are on the southernmost and northernmost parks of the island: Cabrits Park has the ruins of Fort Shirley, now planted with cherimoya, coconut, and other trees, and with a number of rusty cannons still lying about. Two longer hikes, which we managed in about an hour round trip, take you to craggy lookouts and a rocky but pristine beach, through light forest populated by innumerable lizards, hermit crabs, and a few harmless snakes.

In the south is Scotts Head and Soufriere Bay, which encompasses a shaded beach, a coral reef suitable for snorkeling. Scotts Head offers a steep hike up its grassy sides -- our two youngsters managed it in sundresses and sandals in less than 15 minutes, and we all enjoyed the panorama at the top, including sightings of blue-footed boobies and a Magnificent Frigate Bird. A little up the road is the trail to the Soufriere Sulfur Springs -- a quick hike to a swimming-pool-sized hot spring, and a slightly longer one to some smoking sulfur deposits.

The island is also home to the last population of Carib Indians, a talented people who weave wonderful baskets. We drove to the East Coast to visit the Carib Territory and several roadside craft stands. On the way from the capital city of Roseau to the Carib Territory is Emerald Pool, a 10-minute hike in the rain forest. There is a less-traveled return route that boasts spectacular views across a forested valley. It was here that the older daughter and I caught our only glimpse of the rare Imperial parrot in the wild (you can also visit a half-dozen confiscated pet Imperial and Red Necked parrots in the Botanical Gardens, east of Roseau.) The islanders, who speak English and French Creole, were generally friendly and helpful, particularly around Roseau, which had so many little wooden homes with balconies and peaked tin roofs that it looked like a movie set of a Caribbean city in the 1940s. Roseau also had the ideal restaurant for families, as well as such necessities as pizza and burgers. The Fort Young Hotel served dinner at 7, but selections from its excellent kitchen were available earlier at the poolside bar. On Fridays, the Fort Young has a local band play poolside at about 6 p.m. for Happy Hour, which is popular with the locals. The strong rum punch costs only about 80 cents.

To be close to the most popular hiking areas, we spent the first part of the week at the Papillote Wilderness Retreat. The Papillote is a destination in itself. Owner Anne Jean-Baptiste has created a magical garden in the craggy green mountains near Trafalgar Falls. Concrete steps snake through plantings of begonias, orchids, bromeliads, and other tropical flowers. Streams -- and the showers -- are fed by hot springs, which she has enclosed in three small hot pools for soaking and swimming. The mystery of the place has been enhanced with looming garden sculpture and the presence of innumerable tree frogs, lizards, hummingbirds, and almost-tame bullfinches. Domestic animals include peacocks and chickens. Breakfast every morning, which we took on our terrace, was accompanied by putting out Cheerios for the bullfinches and then sitting still until they joined us.

In the north, one can stay in the four-bedroom house where Noel Coward and Somerset Maugham did. Pointe Baptiste has a panoramic view from the veranda as well as the lush gardens, and gives you quick access to the sights in Portsmouth as well as access to a lagoon with a white- and black-sand beach.

We stayed at the much-recommended Picard Beach Resort, which has charming old-Dominican-style cottages on the beach, where one could snorkel while the other parent built sand castles with the children. Here we learned to make our own rum punches so that we could sit on the front porch and watch the sun dip into the Caribbean -- a perfect way to end a day filled with hiking, swimming, or bird watching, and one of the many pleasures of Dominica.

Accommodations: Papillote Wilderness Retreat costs $85 a night for two adjoining rooms and two baths. Phone 767-448-2287, fax 767-448-2285, email papillote(at sign)tod.dm. Meals are extra. On the Modified American Plan, one can get breakfast and a three-course dinner for about $30 per person.

Another option, just down the road from the Papillote, is the D'AuPhone 3346, fax 767-449-9637, email honychurchs(at sign)cw.dom.dm. A family-sized cottage rents for about $50 a night.

The owners at D'Auchamps, Sara Honeychurch and Bob Biener, also manage a spectacular property in the north: Pointe Baptiste, which has a four-bedroom house as well as a honeymooner's cottage for rent by the night or the week ($75 to $1,170). Noel Coward and Somerset Maugham were among Pointe Baptiste's guests, and a look at the panoramic view from the veranda or the lush gardens tells you why.

For more upscale accommodations, with cable TV and a swimming pool, try the Fort Young Hotel. Phone 767-448-5000, fax 767-448-5006. Double rooms run from $125-$160 with $20 per extra person.

A nice stop about halfway up the west coast is the Sunset Bay Club, Batalie Beach. Phone 767-446-65 22, fax 767-446-6523, email sunset(at sign)tod.dm. The club sits right on a lovely beach and near the Batalie River, in which you can also swim. The pool, which has showers and changing areas, shade, and a shallow pool for children, is worth a visit on its own. The hotel charges about $3.50 per adult for a day's use of the pool, and the first child per adult is free. There is also a restaurant near the beach -- good for lemonade -- with toys for the youngsters. Double rooms, which can come with bunk beds for the children, are $125 a night, including breakfast, plus $20 for each child under 12.

Picard Beach Resort costs $140 a night per cottage, which can sleep up to four. Phone 767-445-5131, fax 767-445-5599. Each cottage has a kitchenette, sitting-dining area, veranda, bedroom, and bath.

Food: The country produces bananas for Britain. The small ones are especially delicious. Go to the market in Roseau and pick up fabulous fresh coconuts, candy-sweet papaya (also called pawpaw), passion fruit, cherimoya, and other tropical treats.

In Roseau, the Fort Young Hotel has a restaurant and a bar that serve lunch, snacks, and selections from either menu for dinner. The service is the best we found on the island. Phone 448-5000.

Another great place -- and just across the street -- is La Robe Creole, a charming little restaurant serving excellent Caribbean dishes for adults as well as a children's menu. Across the street is Roseau's bayfront, where restless children can run along the expansive walk and, at sunset, watch the cruise ships disembark. Phone 448-2896.

Near Portsmouth, try the beachfront restaurants for ambience, and the stands just outside Ross University for dishes like fried chicken and spaghetti Bolognese, if your youngsters do without them. Two seaside restaurants we tried and liked were the Coconut Beach Hotel (445-5393) and Sango's Sea Lodge (445-5211), which can be found by looking for Cabrit's Dive signs on the west side of the highway between Picard Beach and the Indian River.

Tourist Information: Dominica Hotel & Tourism Association, 111 Bath Road Roseau. Phone 767-448-6565, fax 767-448-0299. Caribbean Tourism Organization, 20 East 46 St., New York, NY 1001 Phone 212-682-0435, fax 212-808-4975.