Peace, beauty in the West

Sedona -- A sensuous feast

Author: By Amy Barry, Globe Correspondent

Date: SUNDAY, August 23, 1998

Page: M13

Section: Travel

So stunning is their beauty, you all but forget about the two hours you just spent driving north from Phoenix.

As you leave the barren landscape of southern Arizona behind, eager to escape its dust-filled monotony, the beauty of these geological behemoths draws you in, taunting you to get up close and personal with Red Rock Country.

Perhaps it's the sudden onset of such beauty that's the most shocking. One minute you're driving along a winding road filled with weary-looking cacti and deflated brown scrub, and suddenly, without warning, you turn a corner and are faced with some of the most spectacular scenery in the United States.

Tucked away to the west of Highway 17, Sedona is a serendipitous feast for the senses. You never know what spectacular butte, mesa or monolith will pop up around the next corner.

Surrounded by the Coconino National Forest, Sedona is a wonder to explore, whether by car, jeep, horseback, or on foot.

One of the best ways to get a feel for this western spot is by car, as roads become every visitor's oyster. No two roadways are alike, and neither are the breathtaking views and colorful scenery they pass. Drivers, however, should be forewarned about keeping their eyes on the road. Distractions are omnipresent throughout Sedona (whether they be the rocks themselves or roadside wildlife), and cars being extricated from deep ravines are not an uncommon sight.

A good place to get acquainted with Sedona is at the Chapel of the Holy Cross, off State Route 179 on Chapel Road. Built in 1956, the chapel, high atop a winding mountain road, is sandwiched between two red sandstone peaks and offers sweeping views of the area's southeastern rocks. Sunsets here are not to be missed as the rocks and plateaus slowly change colors from red to orange to lavender. To the chapel's right stands the Madonna and Child, a rock formation that bears an uncanny resemblance to the Virgin Mary cuddling the infant Jesus. Straight across the way stands the monstrous Cathedral Rock, and a little further down the road is Bell Rock, so named because it resembles a huge sedentary bell.

Not surprisingly, most of Sedona's largest rocks come with names attached, a practice residents talk about with pride -- ask any local about any rock formation, and they're sure to know it's name.

Options for rock viewing increase as you hit SR89A, Sedona's main street. Head south and you'll pass Coffee Pot Rock on the left (you guessed it, a monolith in the shape of an old-fashioned percolator), and eventually you'll come to Lower Red Rock Loop Road. Take a left here and follow the winding country road for 4 miles to Red Rock State Park. The park, bisected by Oak Creek, features various vegetation and wildlife. Unbeknown to many visitors, however, the park boasts one of the most beautiful sites in Sedona, the monstrous Red Rock Crossing. The formation's proximity to the gurgling creek offers one of the best photo opportunities in Sedona.

Another great photo spot is Enchantment Resort in Boynton Canyon, just a few miles west of Red Rock Crossing. The four-star resort offers breathtaking views of Sedona's western corner.

While exploring by car is an excellent option, it doesn't allow for a true hands-on experience with the rocks. For that, jeep tours are highly recommended, since they are the only vehicles sturdy enough to handle rugged back-road terrain.

Pink Jeep Tours offered numerous tour choices. We chose the two-hour Broken Arrow Tour and were not disappointed. Six of us piled into the jeep, along with our tour guide, James, and hit the road. Once we ventured off the main road, we bumped and bounced along narrow dirt paths as we headed toward a close encounter with the rocks. As James expertly steered and cajoled the jeep up rugged rocks and steep hills, he talked merrily about the rich vegetation and the evolution of the area's geological structures. As we ascended higher and higher in the jeep, sometimes at what seemed 90-degree angles, the unobstructed views of Oak Creek Canyon were superb.

We stopped to catch our breath along Submarine Rock, an elongated flat-topped rock that truly resembled an underwater sea vessel. Here we learned a little bit more about how the buttes and mesas were formed (by millions of years of water and wind erosion) and did a small amount of hiking that literally took our breath away due to the high altitude. Everywhere we looked -- above, below, and at eye level -- a grand chasm of rock surrounded us, including one butte that resembled the cartoon character Yogi Bear. Coupled with a bright blue sky and plenty of sunshine, the experience was unforgettable.

The jeep ride back was even more fun and exhilarating as we slid foot by foot down the sides of rock-laden dirt paths. Thankfully, James assured us he had a sturdy set of brakes and quick reflexes, even though we only dared take quick peeks over sheer drops hundreds of feet high.

(Jeep riders are forewarned that the ride is bumpy and that the chances of being tossed about are close to 100 percent. Pregnant women and those with certain health problems are advised against taking the tour.)

After brushing off the dust and dirt from the scenic back roads, you may opt to head north on SR89A. But first make a quick stop on Main Street to sneak a peek at Snoopy Rock, a towering mesa that looks exactly like Charlie Brown's lovable dog sleeping on top of his doghouse. (If you look hard enough, you'll see a miniature Woodstock perched atop Snoopy's head.)

What lies ahead on SR89A is the heart of Oak Creek Canyon. The 16-mile drive, lined with trout farms, is notable for the drastic changes it offers in both plant life and temperature. Gradually, as you wind your way up the steep roadway, vibrant red cliffs take on white and yellow hues, and cypress, pine, and juniper trees start to take on snow. Elevations at the top of Oak Creek Canyon are close to 6,000 feet, and, as such, temperatures are much cooler. Those venturing on to Flagstaff or the Grand Canyon will be amazed to see snow-covered mountains less than 30 miles north of rustic Sedona.

Red Rock State Park -- Located 4 miles south off US89A on Lower Red Rock Loop Road. This 286-acre park offers great views of Red Rock Crossing and is the site of some of the best-known and most-photographed rock formations in Red Rock Country. Open daily 8 a.m. to 6 p.m., May-September; 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. remainder of year. Visitor center open daily 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.. Admission is $5 per vehicle (up to six passengers), $1 per pedestrian. Call 520-282-5729.

Bell Rock Inn -- Located 6 miles south on SR179 in the Village of Oak Creek at 6246 Highway 179. Set just south of Sedona proper, this reasonable, clean hotel features two swimming pools, plentiful parking, and beautiful views of Bell Rock. Rates vary by season. For reservations, call 520-282-4161.

Pink Jeep Tours -- Located 1/4-mile north of Highway 179 and Highway 89A intersection in Sedona center. Open seven days a week, year round. Reservations recommended. Six tours are available, ranging from 1 1/2 to 4 hours. Rates are $30-$55 per person, depending on length of tour. Call 520-282-5000.

Sedona-Oak Creek Canyon Chamber of Commerce -- Located at Forest Road and SR 89A. Information on the many things to see and do around Sedona may be obtained by writing to PO Box 478, Sedona, AZ 86339 or calling 520-282-7722.