Lifestyle

Appealing Asian tapas at Ming Tsai’s Blue Dragon

Above: garlic sake clams with udon noodles. Below: crispy pork tail with mango sticky rice (left); shrimp banh mi and jicama salad on toasted baguette.
Above: garlic sake clams with udon noodles. Below: crispy pork tail with mango sticky rice (left); shrimp banh mi and jicama salad on toasted baguette.Credit: Photos byKayana Szymczak for the Boston Globe

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A wave of new restaurants are opening in Fort Point this year, and from the looks of the crowds at Ming Tsai's three-month-old Blue Dragon on A Street, the neighborhood is ravenous for more. Tsai, of “Simply Ming” fame on WGBH-TV, calls his new venture an Asian gastropub, a tapas-style take on the higher-end fare he serves at Blue Ginger in Wellesley. It’s a clever concept, with small plates circling the continent, from Indonesian shepherd’s pie to pad Thai to Vietnamese banh mi. The chef-owner plays it safe with some of the food, Westernizing Eastern dishes into a familiar middle ground, but the more adventurous offerings are much more appealing. The service, like the food, is all over the place.

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