Even in great pizza joints, “white” pizzas are typically a losing proposition. What often emerges from the kitchen is a bland, cracker-crisp pie, something akin to a communion wafer topped with mozzarella. But Picco’s Alsatian is a brash testament to the quality of their crust, which goes through a cold, slow fermentation, the same process used to make good sourdough bread.
On top is a base of crème fraiche that adds a layer of richness; an actual sauce that prevents it from becoming a glorified bread stick. Inspired by a French tarte flambé, it’s then topped with sautéed onion and shallot, herbs, Gruyere, and two types of bacon. Manager Mark Tikonoff explains, “The first is from North Country Smoke House, which was chosen for its smokiness and the second, from Schaller and Weber, was chosen for its ‘porky’ flavor.”
Earlier this year, “Travel and Leisure” called Boston one of the top five cities for pizza anywhere in the United States. Even against all that stiff competition dripping with red sauce and bubbly, Neapolitan crust, Picco’s Alsatian just might be the best of the bunch.
Price: $23.50 for a large
513 Tremont St., Boston