You could make the argument that A4 does not belong in a Cheap column. We know a little family of three who went for pizza and beer and spent $70. They watched in a combination of delight and horror as their 2 1/2-year-old devoured the better part of an entire pizza, a portion of the decidedly grown-up watermelon-feta salad, and an old-school Hoodsie ice cream cup.
That said, you could also argue that the price is a fair reflection of the deliciousness and quality of the food. Just about everything, from handmade mozzarella and smoked bluefish, to a sourdough crust that the chef has been nursing for 12 years, is painstakingly crafted. This eases the sticker shock of $10-$16.50 pizzas that satisfy one hungry person. Full story for BostonGlobe.com subscribers.
Catherine Smart can be reached at firstname.lastname@example.org.