< Back to front page
Text size
–
+
Munch Madness!
On March 17, we'll post our bracket in the paper and online. Rounds 1 and 2 will take place March 18-21 (we'll skip the play-in game), and you'll be able to cast your vote online. Of course, there will be a forum for you to argue vociferously with others. We're fashioning ourselves after March Madness, after all. Following rounds will correspond with March Madness games.
Who gets to play? Who will make it to the Final Four? And who will take the crown? In Munch Madness, it's up to you.
Follow us on Twitter
Did you know the Globe food department is on Twitter? We are. You should follow us. You'll get quick links to news, reviews, recipes, and other food content, plus plenty of random food-related commentary. It's also a quick and easy way to interact with us, 140 characters at a time.
Here's where to follow us:
Devra First: @devrafirst
Globe food coverage: @GlobeFood
Thanks! Hope to see you there.
Devra First: @devrafirst
Globe food coverage: @GlobeFood
Thanks! Hope to see you there.
For your sweetheart (chocolate, of course)
Boston Globe contributing writer Lisa Yockelson describes these brownies as "dark as night." I made them last weekend -- using the cakier alternative she offers in the recipe -- and they are still mighty fudgy. There are enough tucked away in my freezer to enjoy after the Valentine's Day supper I plan to make (fish, steamed veg, plenty of calories left for an indulgence).
But I was thinking today about what I would do if I didn't have time to make anything. I decided I'd dip dried apricots into chocolate, and then the Culinary Institute of America -- quite by coincidence -- sent these instructions. They call it "Chocolate-Dipped Anything." They suggest dipping strawberries (they're out of season), dried fruits, and pretzels.

Whatever you choose, you have to temper the chocolate. That means heating, cooling, and heating again, so the chocolate coating is shiny and has no streaks. It takes more patience then skill and requires a thermometer. Here are instructions.
Tempering chocolate
1. Weigh or measure your chocolate (you need to do this; you may want to buy two identical bars of the same weight to make it easier). You'll need a second amount of chocolate equal to 25 percent of the first amount.
2. In a bowl over hot but not simmering water, melt the larger amount of chocolate. Remove the bowl from the hot water. The chocolate should be 120 degrees (dark chocolate) or 110 degrees (milk or white chocolate).
3. Add the smaller amount of unmelted chocolate to the melted chocolate. This is called "the seed." It will cool the melted chocolate. Stir gently and constantly off the heat until the chocolate temperature falls to 85 degrees (dark) or 83 degrees (milk, white). It may take 15 to 20 minutes for most or all of the seed to melt.
4. Test the chocolate (an important step): Make sure the chocolate is below 90 degrees. Dip a spoon into the mixture, set it on a work surface, and let it sit undisturbed for 7 to 8 minutes -- do not refrigerate -- or until the chocolate no longer looks wet and the surface is uniform and without streaks. (If the chocolate has not set or is streaky, you need to seed again. Add a small block of unmelted chocolate to the bowl, stir another 3 to 4 minutes and test again.)
5. When the chocolate sets properly, return the bowl to the water bath, which should not exceed 89 degrees (dark) or 86 degrees (milk, white), for a few minutes.
6. To dip fruit, make sure it is room temperature. If fruit is cut, dry the cut pieces with paper towel to remove excess moisture. Use a dipping fork or two forks or hold the fruit at one end, and dip it into the chocolate mixture. If dipping cookies or other dry items, start dipping right away.
7. Set the dipped pieces on parchment paper to set. Leave them at room temperature to dry. Adapted from The Culinary Institute of America's "Chocolates and Confections at Home"
Catching up with Catch
Catch chef Chris Parsons heads off to New York on Thursday for orientation for the Bocuse d'Or USA competition. Friday is a prep day, and the contest takes place on Saturday. We'll have a story about his participation in Wednesday's paper, so stay tuned.
It's exciting. But that's not all he's got going on.
He's changing the name and concept of Catch. The Winchester seafood restaurant will now be called Parsons Table. It will be a neighborhood restaurant featuring ingredient-driven, amped-up comfort food. Yes, that sounds like a lot of other restaurants. But they're not located in Winchester.
Parsons Table will feature Winchester-baked Mamadou's bread, Island Creek oysters, Shelburne Farms cheddar, Ioka Valley Farm steak, Alyson's Orchard apples, local microbrews, and other regional ingredients. The menu includes the likes of salads, fondue, hand-cut fettuccine with smoked chicken and tomato confit, steak frites, and rainbow trout with haricots verts, potatoes, and pancetta.
Catch won't be going away. Parsons intends to relocate in Boston or Cambridge. Those plans are pending. The Winchester location will continue to operate through Valentine's Day weekend. During that time, Parsons will be bringing back favorite dishes from Catch's six-year run: salt-roasted Wellfleet clams with chorizo breadcrumbs, oregano mojo, and roasted lemon; Gloucester scallops with roasted pineapple, soy beans, celery root, and braised short-rib ravioli; and more.
He hopes to have Parsons Table open by the end of the month. Renovations begin Feb. 15. The new space will feature tabletops of reclaimed wood and barn-wood siding.
Casting call
Food Network is looking for teams of two to participate in "24 Hour Restaurant Battle." Casting producers will be in Boston on Feb. 8 at the Lenox Hotel in Back Bay.
They're looking for pairs of two who are related (brothers, sisters, husband-wife, and so on), who can they can run a restaurant. One team member will cook, the other run the dining room and everyone is welcome -- no experience or lots of it.
To download details, go here.
Kimchi: the new cupcake?
So posit the folks behind the upcoming Greater Boston Kimchi Festival. Kimchi is everywhere these days, though perhaps not quite as ubiquitous as cupcakes, and I say yay. For the fermented spicy cabbage that is a mainstay of the Korean diet is one of my favorite foods.

There will be a contest for the best homemade kimchi, as well as tastings, demonstrations, door prizes, and more.
For further information, e-mail kimchi-info@lactoferment.com.
Globe Staff Photo/Suzanne Kreiter
I think it could also become one of yours, if it isn't already. So let's celebrate it on March 21, from 3 to 7 p.m., at the Theodore Parker Unitarian Universalist Church, 1859 Centre St., West Roxbury. (Not that you need the address -- you can probably just smell your way there.)There will be a contest for the best homemade kimchi, as well as tastings, demonstrations, door prizes, and more.
For further information, e-mail kimchi-info@lactoferment.com.
Chocolee to rise again?
Lee Napoli makes lovely chocolates. She closed her Chocolee shop on Pembroke Street in the South End a while back, much to the chagrin of chocoholics citywide.
Word is, she'll rehang her shingle soon -- on the former Haley House Bakery site in the same neighborhood. The new shop could open in March.

Word is, she'll rehang her shingle soon -- on the former Haley House Bakery site in the same neighborhood. The new shop could open in March.
Lee Napoli. Yes, please. More of that, please. (Globe File Photo/Janet Knott)
Upcoming restaurants for the Fenway, Back Bay
In February, the Fenway Cantina is opening at 1260 Boylston St., behind the ballpark. The tagline is: "Ice cold beer and food." Simple. To the point. Bring it.
It's run by the folks behind Blue on Highland in Needham and 88 Wharf in Milton; the chef is Blue's Peter Tartsinis. The food is inspired by Mexico -- the likes of corn and poblano tamales with salsa verde, enchiladas, and chicken mole, with a few cheeseburgers and mac 'n' cheeses thrown in for good measure. There will be about 20 beers on tap and 50 in bottles.
It fills the niche La Verdad already occupies comfortably, but with a little more Tex in its Mex. The place will served dinner till 1 a.m. daily, which is always nice. And I do love the word "cantina." It makes me hungry. And it makes me think of "Star Wars."
Across from Back Bay station, Firefly has morphed into Six Burner, serving "Inspired Comfort Food (just like your mom's cooking, just a little more amped up)." We haven't seen that before. Oh, wait, we have. But that doesn't mean it's not a good idea for the former Firefly, which never seemed to draw the crowd it should in that location.
On the menu: chicken pot pie spring rolls (this was bound to happen sooner or later), meatloaf with stout gravy, Kobe beef hot dogs, tuna melts, and so on. There's brunch, too, on weekends. Also: Wednesday Wii tournaments, Thursday trivia nights, and monthly beer dinners. Fun for the after-work crowd. Possibly even fun enough to miss the commuter rail for.
It's run by the folks behind Blue on Highland in Needham and 88 Wharf in Milton; the chef is Blue's Peter Tartsinis. The food is inspired by Mexico -- the likes of corn and poblano tamales with salsa verde, enchiladas, and chicken mole, with a few cheeseburgers and mac 'n' cheeses thrown in for good measure. There will be about 20 beers on tap and 50 in bottles.
It fills the niche La Verdad already occupies comfortably, but with a little more Tex in its Mex. The place will served dinner till 1 a.m. daily, which is always nice. And I do love the word "cantina." It makes me hungry. And it makes me think of "Star Wars."
On the menu: chicken pot pie spring rolls (this was bound to happen sooner or later), meatloaf with stout gravy, Kobe beef hot dogs, tuna melts, and so on. There's brunch, too, on weekends. Also: Wednesday Wii tournaments, Thursday trivia nights, and monthly beer dinners. Fun for the after-work crowd. Possibly even fun enough to miss the commuter rail for.
See the spices, eat the food
In today's story on snacks, I mentioned the Dosa Factory, serving Indian street food in Central Square, Cambridge.

The restaurant is located in the back of Shalimar, a grocery store brimming with Indian products. If you're interested in dosas, you might also be interested in the store's Spice Tours. On Saturdays, from 11 a.m. to noon, a chef leads guests through the aisles, explaining how spices, sauces, and other ingredients are used. The tour is followed by a dosa lunch at the Dosa Factory.
The cost for tour and food is $20. Call 617-868-DOSA. Of course.
A chili-garlic-cheese dosa at the Dosa Factory. (Globe Staff Photo/Matthew J. Lee)
The restaurant is located in the back of Shalimar, a grocery store brimming with Indian products. If you're interested in dosas, you might also be interested in the store's Spice Tours. On Saturdays, from 11 a.m. to noon, a chef leads guests through the aisles, explaining how spices, sauces, and other ingredients are used. The tour is followed by a dosa lunch at the Dosa Factory.
The cost for tour and food is $20. Call 617-868-DOSA. Of course.
Dining chat Jan. 27
Tune in Wednesday, Jan. 27, at 11 a.m. to talk about food and restaurants with critic Devra First. Check out Devra's roundup of snacks that expand flavors and ignore borders.
Stella helps Haiti
Head on over to Stella after work. There, chef Evan Deluty and guest chefs Dante de Magistris, Anthony Caturano, and Michael Schlow are joining forces to raise money for Yele Haiti. All of the proceeds will go to the organization. There will be an open bar, passed hors d'oeuvres, and live jazz. 6:30-10:30 p.m. $100 per person. Call 617-497-4200.
Warming bowl of lentil soup
Months ago I made a pork roast and after carving the meat off the bone, I tucked the bones in the freezer to add to a pot of soup. Last week we made that soup with lentils, added the meaty bone, and it was fantastic.
Now the bone's gone. So I bought a thick center-cut pork chop and browned it with vegetables before adding lentils. It was a pretty good trick. That little chop went a long way to giving the soup flavor. You do need chicken stock, however, since one chop can't flavor the entire pot. Once the soup is done, take the chop out, cut up the meat, and return it to the lentil mixture.
Lentil soup
Serves 8
1 thick center-cut pork chop
Salt and black pepper, to taste
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 carrots, coarsely chopped
1 medium onion, coarsely chopped
2 stalks celery, coarsely chopped
Pinch crushed red pepper
3 cups le Puy lentils
2 cups water, or more to taste
6 cups chicken stock
2 scallions, trimmed and thinly sliced
3 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
Extra crushed red pepper (for sprinkling)
1. Sprinkle the pork chop all over with salt and black pepper.
2. In a soup pot, heat the oil and when it is hot, add the pork chop. Leave it without moving for 3 to 4 minutes or until it is golden on the bottom. Turn and brown the other side.
3. While the chop is browning, add the carrots, onion, and celery to the pan at the edges. Cook, stirring the vegetables, for 5 minutes more or until the pork is browned on the bottom and the vegetables begin to soften.
4. Sprinkle the vegetables with salt, black pepper, and red pepper. Stir the lentils into the pan. Add the 4 cups water and stock.
5. Bring to a boil, lower the heat, cover the pot, and simmer the soup for 50 minutes. Add more water during cooking if the soup seems too thick.
6. Taste the soup for seasoning and add more salt and red pepper, if you like. Remove the chop. Leave it to cool slightly. Cut the meat off the bone; discard the bone and fat. Chop the meat coarsely. Return it to the pot.
7. Ladle the soup into bowls, garnish with scallions, parsley, and red pepper. Sheryl Julian
Remember Stoddard's?
This Stoddard's? It's pushed back its opening oh, about 3,698,732 times now.
Here's the latest scoop: There's an invitee-only opening party on Jan. 27.
And the public will at long last be able to get its shoes shined and to drink of ye olde historic cocktails before said cocktails go back out of fashion. But not until mid-February. Theoretically, Feb. 16, with a soft opening and limited menu the week of Feb. 8.
See you there?
Here's the latest scoop: There's an invitee-only opening party on Jan. 27.
And the public will at long last be able to get its shoes shined and to drink of ye olde historic cocktails before said cocktails go back out of fashion. But not until mid-February. Theoretically, Feb. 16, with a soft opening and limited menu the week of Feb. 8.
See you there?
Restaurant rumor mongering
Time to play "guess what restaurant might come to this space."
Doesn't it look lovely?
OK, I'll make it a little easier. That photo is from 2002. It actually looks more like this now:
It's somewhat off the beaten restaurant path, something the potential manager has a bit of a history with.
And it apparently has rather fabulous patio space: There's an attached greenhouse seating area for 50 people, plus an outdoor patio for 25.
That could be a game changer for this neighborhood.
Perhaps we'll know more after a licensing board hearing this week. In the meantime, mull it over. Who/what do you imagine in this space?
P.S. Yup, it's Darryl Settles. Here's more from the Herald.
OK, I'll make it a little easier. That photo is from 2002. It actually looks more like this now:
Globe Staff File Photo/Pat Greenhouse
I do stress "might," because the idea of a place serving alcohol daily till 2 a.m. won't necessarily be embraced in this fairly residential Roxbury location.It's somewhat off the beaten restaurant path, something the potential manager has a bit of a history with.
And it apparently has rather fabulous patio space: There's an attached greenhouse seating area for 50 people, plus an outdoor patio for 25.
That could be a game changer for this neighborhood.
Perhaps we'll know more after a licensing board hearing this week. In the meantime, mull it over. Who/what do you imagine in this space?
P.S. Yup, it's Darryl Settles. Here's more from the Herald.
The switcheroo
Last night, I took the night off from eating in restaurants for work. Usually when I do this, I'm pretty excited to go home and cook something simple and light. My other default option is to eat a humble bowl of noodles (preferably spicy) quietly, by myself. I love people and all, but sometimes it's nice to just sit and eat and not make chitchat. That's what I was after yesterday. Most of the other people in the restaurant were in parties of two or four, but one other person seemed to share my belief that sometimes there's nothing better than a solo bowl of soup and noodles. I think we might have saluted each other, but for the fact that we were both obviously completely uninterested in interacting with anyone else.
"Um, yeah, this isn't mine. Did you maybe switch the orders?" I looked over at my not-friend, and the look on her face said yes, yes he did switch the orders.
The waiter was perfectly pleasant about it. He took my untouched bowl and delivered it to the other woman. Then he took her bowl and gave it to me. Her spoon was facing the opposite direction of the spoon that had been placed in my bowl: eating side up rather than down, facing the side of the bowl.
The horror! "Did she eat it?" I asked him. "No, no, she didn't eat it," he said.
I wasn't sure I believed him. But I didn't want to waste food, and I didn't want to wait for another bowl. So I ate it.
On the way out I asked her if she'd tasted the noodles. She said no. I was glad.
What do you think? Should they have made us fresh dishes, or is it acceptable to pull the old switcheroo when food gets misdelivered to another customer? Would you have eaten it?
Globe Staff File Photo / Barry Chin
We ordered around the same time, and received our orders simultaneously, spoons resting in the bowls. What was in my bowl looked great, but it was definitely not what I'd ordered. I was betting her bowl was my bowl and my bowl was her bowl, and I wanted my bowl, and I bet she wanted her bowl, and -- waiter!"Um, yeah, this isn't mine. Did you maybe switch the orders?" I looked over at my not-friend, and the look on her face said yes, yes he did switch the orders.
The waiter was perfectly pleasant about it. He took my untouched bowl and delivered it to the other woman. Then he took her bowl and gave it to me. Her spoon was facing the opposite direction of the spoon that had been placed in my bowl: eating side up rather than down, facing the side of the bowl.
The horror! "Did she eat it?" I asked him. "No, no, she didn't eat it," he said.
I wasn't sure I believed him. But I didn't want to waste food, and I didn't want to wait for another bowl. So I ate it.
On the way out I asked her if she'd tasted the noodles. She said no. I was glad.
What do you think? Should they have made us fresh dishes, or is it acceptable to pull the old switcheroo when food gets misdelivered to another customer? Would you have eaten it?
A critic has a meal to rave about

Richman writes about course after course of appetizers, then many more middle courses, plus desserts. He describes the spot as BYO (cost is $95). He says that you call, leave your name, and then get a call weeks later to say you have a seat. Those seats, by the way, are stools at a large stainless steel kitchen table.
The dinner is actually a cooking class, according to the web site. The space is adjacent to a market called Brooklyn Fare.
The GQ restaurant critic thinks that Ramirez may rival NY restaurateur David Chang for inventiveness -- and coveted seats.
Lionette's Market sold
Picking up the mantle of local, sustainable food are new owner Don Otto, a Roxbury native, and his family. In early February, the name will change to Don Otto's Natural & Organic Market. According to former owner James Lionette, the staff will remain, aside from him.
Brothers Robert (left) and James Lionette in the store when it opened in 2003. (Globe Staff Photo/Jonathan Wiggs)
Don Otto's website states the new market will be similar but not identical to Lionette's. Changes in the works: a sandwich menu and a bigger selection of cheese.Pressure-cooker chicken soup

There are several recipes for chicken soup coming out in tomorrow's Food section. One is a soup I make often with chicken wings, which gives you nuggets of meat and a jellied stock that's loaded with flavor. You need to simmer the soup for 1 1/2 hours (but pay very little attention to it during cooking), then pick the meat off the bones.
You can also use chicken legs, as directed here. A pressure cooker reduces the simmering time to 20 minutes, so I use that pot most of the time. But you can't leave the kitchen. Nothing at all dangerous about modern pressure cookers -- they cannot explode -- but you should still stick around.
This time of year, I put the hot food on the back porch to cool quickly (it's screened, so no danger of neighborhood pets eating it) then settle in to the task of discarding the skin and bones from the meat. Allow several hours for the soup to chill so you can skim the fat from the top.
Pressure-cooker chicken soup
Serves 6
4 whole chicken legs
2 onions, cut into 1-inch pieces
4 large carrots, cut in half horizontally
1 stalk celery, coarsely chopped
1 bay leaf
6 peppercorns
1 teaspoon salt
1 cup small pasta or rice, cooked until tender (for serving)
3 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
1. In a large heatproof bowl, set the chicken legs. Pour enough boiling water over them to cover them completely. Set aside for 15 minutes.
2. With tongs, transfer the legs to the pressure cooker. Add the onions, carrots, and celery. Add enough cold water to cover the legs by 1 inch. Add the bay leaf, peppercorns, and salt.
3. Cover with the lid and lock it in place. Bring to medium pressure. Cook for 20 minutes.
4. Carefully transfer the pressure cooker to the sink and run very cold water directly onto the lid for 5 minutes or until you can open the lock without forcing it.
5. Lift off the lid and let the soup sit for 15 minutes to cool slightly.
6. With a large slotted spoon, lift out the chicken legs and vegetables and transfer to a large bowl. Tip the soup into a large container. Leave both to cool.
7. When the soup is cool, cover and refrigerate. When the chicken is cool, remove the meat from the bones. Discard skin, bones, bay leaf, and peppercorns. Cut the meat into 1/4-inch pieces. Return the meat to the vegetables. Cover and refrigerate for several hours or until cold.
8. With a slotted spoon, skim off and discard the fat from the soup. Tip the soup into a large pot. Add the chicken and vegetables. Bring to a boil and simmer for 5 minutes or until hot.
9. Add several spoonfuls of pasta or rice to 4 deep bowls. Ladle the soup, chicken, and vegetables on top. Sprinkle with parsley. Sheryl Julian
Gavel comes down; grapes walk.
Uber-attorney Kenneth Starr couldn't nail Bill and Hillary's hides to the wall in the Whitewater affair, but he may have made a trophy of the Massachusetts three tier system last week - at least when it comes to interstate wine shipments. On Friday, a Federal appeals court brought the gavel down on what has been a long-running dispute between Massachusetts wholesalers eager to restrict direct shipment to consumers and Family Winemakers of California, a group that complained the Massachusetts system was a violation of the U.S. constitution's so-called Commerce Clause (Starr was the legal brain on the winning side in the 2005 Supreme Court case, Granholm & Heald, that set the stage for Friday's decision). You can the full story here and review the decision (if you have the patience) here: wine decision.pdf
"The decision allows access to the whole wine market for Massachusetts consumers," crowed Family Winemakers president Paul Kronenberg. "Protectionist state laws run counter to the concept of free trade within the nation."
We'll see just how interested Massachusetts wine consumers are in direct shipping when they see the bill for moving a case of wine coast to coast under temperature-controlled conditions all by its onesies.
About Dishing What's cooking in the world of food.
contributors
Sheryl Julian, the Globe's Food Editor, writes regularly for the Food section.
Devra First is the
Globe's food reporter and restaurant critic. Her reviews appear weekly in the Food section.
Ann Cortissoz writes about beer for the food section.
Stephen Meuse writes about wine for the Globe's Food section. His column on Plonk ($12 and under wines) appears on the last Wednesday of the month.






