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Coolio interview: the extended version

Posted by Devra First November 18, 2009 01:29 PM

Today, we ran an interview with the rapper Coolio, who has a new cookbook out. It was condensed for space. Here is the extended version, for those who did not get enough of the self-titled Ghetto Gourmet.

FULL ENTRY

The waiting was the hardest part

Posted by Ann Cortissoz November 17, 2009 05:14 PM

b-side.jpgEver since the B-Side, the Cambridge bar with the cool vibe and the hot cocktail scene, closed down last November, beer lovers, cocktail connoisseurs, and barflies of all kinds have been impatiently awaiting the next incarnation of the space on Hampshire Street.

The bar scene buzzed with the news that Daniel Lanigan, who started the beloved Amherst beer bar the Moan and Dove, would be turning the Hampshire Street space into another mecca for beer aficionados. But as the beer community kept an eager eye on the boarded-up space, Lanigan ran into one stumbling block after another. Finally, the stars have aligned, and the new bar, called Lord Hobo, is set to open officially tomorrow. The list of beer on draft is pretty spectacular, and the cocktail menu and food menu look pretty good too.

Let's see if it was worth the wait.

Cooking with Frances Rivera

Posted by Sheryl Julian November 17, 2009 03:30 PM
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Lights! Camera! A few weeks ago, Channel 7 anchor Frances Rivera and her TV crew came to my kitchen to learn how to make turkey pie. The recipe is from "The New Boston Globe Cookbook," which came out last month.

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The pie is great for dinner the day after Thanksgiving. Combine leftover turkey with apples in a nice veloute sauce. Cover it with a biscuit crust, which is baked on its own at first, then again on top of the pie; it's beautifully flaky.

Watch for the segment on Frances's "The Dish" on Thursday Nov. 19 at 10 p.m. and Friday Nov. 20 at 5 p.m.

(Yes, she is as beautiful as her photo, and a real sweetie.)

Turkey pie with apples and biscuit crust
Serves 6

The crust for this pie, which is based on leftover roast turkey, is baked separately from the filling, so it doesn’t get soggy. It’s a biscuit dough with lots of fresh parsley. Roll it out so it’s the same shape as your dish (round, oval, rectangular), bake it on a sheet, then finish the baking on top of the creamy turkey pie. The recipe comes from the Dorset Inn in Dorset, Vt.

CRUST
Butter (for the dish)
2 cups flour
1 tablespoon baking powder
1 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons solid vegetable shortening
1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley
1/2 cup whole milk, or more if necessary
Extra flour (for rolling)

1. Set the oven at 350 degrees. Have on hand a deep 10-inch baking dish. Butter it lightly. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
2. In a bowl, mix together the flour, baking powder, and salt. Add the butter and shortening. With your fingers or the tines of a fork, work the mixture together until it resembles sand. Add the parsley and 1/2 cup of the milk. Use a fork to work the liquid into the flour mixture to form a moist dough. Add more milk, 1 tablespoon at a time, if necessary to form moist clumps.
3. Transfer the clumps to a floured counter and knead lightly, adding a little more flour, if necessary, to shape the dough. Roll the dough into an oblong or rectangle (it should be the same shape as the baking dish). Carefully lift the dough onto the baking sheet.
4. Bake the dough for 10 minutes or until set. Set side to cool.

FILLING
3 tablespoons butter
3 tablespoons flour
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 small onion, finely chopped
1 stalk celery, finely chopped
1 leek (white part only), finely chopped
4 cups cooked turkey meat, coarsely chopped
1 tablespoon chopped fresh sage or parsley
2 Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored, and coarsely chopped
1/4 cup apple cider
2 cups turkey or chicken stock
Salt and pepper, to taste

1. In a small skillet, melt the butter and whisk in the flour. Cook over medium heat, stirring, for 5 minutes or until it is golden brown. Set aside.
2. In a large saucepan, heat the oil. Add the onion, celery, and leek. Cook the vegetables over medium heat, stirring often, for 10 minutes or until they soften.
3. Stir in the turkey, sage or parsley, apples, and cider. Bring to a boil, lower the heat, and simmer the mixture for 5 minutes. Transfer to the baking dish.
4. In another saucepan, bring the stock to a boil. Lower the heat to a simmer. Whisk in the butter-flour mixture, salt, and pepper into the boiling stock. When the sauce is smooth and thickened, pour it into the turkey and vegetables.
5. Set the biscuit crust on the filling.
6. Bake the pie for 35 to 45 minutes or until the mixture is bubbling at the edges and the crust is golden brown. Adapted from “The New Boston Globe Cookbook”

The re-review

Posted by Devra First November 17, 2009 03:06 PM

I recently re-reviewed No. 9 Park, which the Globe hadn't reviewed since it opened.

I just stumbled on this Chowhound thread, in which No. 9 does not get a lot of love.

A few points in the discussion struck me. But I'll stick to one: the assertion that there was no real reason for me to re-review the restaurant.

I'm curious what you think about this. Personally, I'm a firm believer in re-reviews. When a restaurant opens, the folks operating it know critics will be visiting for the first few months. But after more than a decade without a review, what's to keep a restaurant on its toes? This is precisely when reviewers should be dropping in to assess whether a restaurant that charges a lot of money has any right to still be doing so.

Should reviews exist solely to critique new restaurants or ones that have recently undergone tangible change? To re-review or not to re-review: What do you think?

The waiting game

Posted by Devra First November 17, 2009 02:13 PM

Coppa was supposed to open last night. I did a drive-by. People were in there, but they were messing around with boxes, not serving up charcuterie and pasta (despite this Food & Wine story that puts its opening in the past tense).

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Meanwhile, the long-awaited bar/restaurant Lord Hobo promises to open tomorrow. Will it? You can click here to find out.

Woodward, in the Ames hotel, once had Nov. 18 as its opening date, too. (This just in: The launch party is Nov. 19, and it opens to the public Friday.)

Stoddard's Fine Food & Ale is slated for a Dec. 3 opening.

And Bistro du Midi was aiming to open this month. [Addendum: It's now set to open Nov. 23.]

Anyone want to place a bet as to which will open first?

The house smells divine

Posted by Sheryl Julian November 17, 2009 10:36 AM
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These are Cortland apples, cored and stuffed with walnuts, cinnamon, brown sugar, and butter, then garnished with a piece of cinnamon stick. Pour a little OJ around the edges and baste them during cooking with the juices in the pan. Sometimes we eat them with yogurt (for lunch!), or drizzle with heavy cream (the baking juices taste like caramel), and last weekend we spooned lightly sweetened fresh ricotta beside them.

There's hardly any prep involved in making them, so they beat apple pie, apple crisp, and apple brown Betty by a mile.

Baked apples with cinnamon and orange juice
Serves 6

6 Cortland apples
1/4 cup dark brown sugar
1/4 cup chopped walnuts
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
2 tablespoons butter, cut into tiny pieces
1/2 cup orange juice
6 pieces cinnamon stick

1. Set the oven at 350 degrees. Butter a 12-inch baking dish.
2. Core the apples but do not peel them. Set them in the dish.
3. In a bowl, combine the sugar, walnuts, cinnamon, and butter. With a small spoon, press some of the mixture into each apple, packing it in. Pour the orange juice over the apples. Set a piece of cinnamon in each one.
4. Bake the apples for 40 to 50 minutes, basting them with the juices in the pan, or until they are tender when pierced with a skewer. From "The Way We Cook"

No Eggo Waffles? Help!

Posted by Doug Most November 16, 2009 07:41 PM

That crying you heard in the frozen food aisle wasn't from whiny kids. It was from parents reeling from Kellogg's announcement that a flood in its Atlanta bakery is causing a shortage of products, including Eggo waffles, that might not be restored until the middle of 2010. The link is here http://www2.kelloggs.com/general.aspx?id=3006&terms=eggo but in the meantime we thought we might help the mourning, er, morning routine with a helpful list.

7 other things children should drizzle syrup on while waiting for their waffles:

7 The most annoying noisemaking toy they have. Let them go crazy with the syrup, then sadly explain why it has to be tossed when it curiously goes silent.

6 That 3-year old laptop: Finally, an excuse to get that MacBook Air.

5 Mom's keys: The stickier they are, the harder to lose them.

4 The toothbrush: If that doesn't get them to brush their teeth, nothing will.

3 The alarm clock: Finally, a legitimate excuse for missing that morning meeting.

2 Kevin Faulk's fingers: Without that bobble, Bill Belichick is still a genius.

1 Belichick's playbook: If the pages stuck together, maybe he punts. (Nah)

Posted by Doug Most

Dreamy little pie

Posted by Sheryl Julian November 16, 2009 06:38 PM
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I never like pumpkin pie until I made this version from restaurateur Lydia Shire. It's perfect in every way, especially in a simple homemade crust. Look for the recipe in Wednesday's food section, which offers an economical Thanksgiving menu.

I prepped this one late last night, then baked it early this morning. When I get home, it will be sitting on the kitchen counter. Then I have to decide whether to dig in or give it to my neighbors.

Probably both.

Turkey basted with Coca-Cola a la Montreal

Posted by Sheryl Julian November 12, 2009 04:57 PM

This guy is funny but I don't think he's joking. Watch this video.

Dining chat Nov. 11

Posted by Devra First November 10, 2009 03:55 PM

Tune in Wednesday, 11/11, at 11 a.m. to talk about food and restaurants. (And at 11:11, we can all make a wish.)


Never too early for a Thanksgiving preview

Posted by Sheryl Julian November 10, 2009 03:14 PM
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I was fiddling with potatoes to decide what to make for Thanksgiving. These are crisps that are quite amazing. You don't have to do anything to them. They're russet potatoes, which are scrubbed, dried, sliced, and drizzled with oil, salt, and pepper.

They're homely before they go into the oven:

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Roast them in a hot oven (425 degrees) for 25 minutes, turn with a spatula and continue roasting for 25 minutes, and you get the crisps.

More homely food that turns golden and delicious:

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These are plump turkey thighs ($2.99 a pound, each of these weighs about 1 pound, which means 2 for less than $6; that's a good value). They roast nicely and because it's dark meat, they stay moist.

Sprinkle with olive oil, salt, pepper, and some herbes de Provence or a mixture of dried rosemary, thyme, and oregano. Broil them close to the element for 10 minutes to crisp the skin, then lower the oven temperature to 425 degrees and roast for 40 minutes or until a meat thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the thigh (not touching the bone) registers 180 degrees.

If I ruled the world, I'd make Thanksgiving a monthly holiday. Or at least order everyone in my kingdom to roast turkey every month. And invite a crowd. And have some fun.

The next-day dish

Posted by Sheryl Julian November 9, 2009 02:15 PM
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I got to the end of the large dish of roasted vegetables (above) and they were looking pretty dreary. They needed a new identity.

I chopped the vegetables coarsely, put them in a pot with lots of chicken stock and a can of white beans, and brought it to a boil. It didn't need a bit more cooking. In the bowls, I sprinkled the soup with crushed red pepper and parsley. The miracle of reinvention.

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Lamb shanks in a slow braise

Posted by Sheryl Julian November 3, 2009 02:13 PM
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Icelandic lamb arrived at Whole Foods -- it's in season for another month. I eyed it skeptically (I love American lamb and also like supporting American products). The shanks were half the size of the American shanks sitting beside them. Both cost $5.99 a pound.

But I was too curious about the taste to pass up the little Icelandic shanks. New Zealand lamb is also small and, I think, tasteless. American lamb can have a sheepy quality, which I happen to like.

I braised these shanks in tomatoes and white wine. When you use red wine with strong-tasting meats, I think the sauce becomes too intense. I cooked them for 1 1/2 hours, added a couple cans of white beans, and continued cooking for another 30 minutes. I'm pleasantly surprised by how much I like them.

Braised lamb shanks with white beans
Serves 4

4 lamb shanks
Salt and pepper, to taste
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 cloves garlic, cut into slices
1 large Spanish onion, halved and thinly sliced
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
1/4 teaspoon ground allspice
1 can (14 to 16 ounces) whole peeled tomatoes, crushed in a bowl
1 cup white wine
1 cup water
1 bay leaf
2 cans (15 ounces each) cannellini beans
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
2 tablespoons chopped fresh rosemary

1. Set the oven at 400 degrees.
2. Sprinkle the shanks all over with salt and pepper. In a large flameproof casserole over medium-high heat, heat the oil and when it is hot, set the shanks in the pan. Brown them without moving for 3 minutes. Turn and brown another side without moving them. Continue until the shanks are browned all over. Remove them from the pan.
3. Add the garlic, onion, salt, and pepper to the pan. Lower the heat to medium and cook the onion, stirring often, for 8 minutes. Add the cumin and allspice. Cook, stirring, for 2 minutes.
4. Stir in the tomatoes, wine, and water. Turn the heat to high. Cook, scraping the bottom of the pan, until the mixture comes to a boil. Return the shanks to the pan. Add the bay leaf. Cover the pan and transfer to the oven.
5. Cook the shanks for 1 1/2 hours or until they are almost tender.
6. Add the beans and stir them into the liquid in the pan. Recover the pot and return it to the oven. Continue cooking for 30 minutes or until the shanks are very tender.
7. Discard the bay leaf. Sprinkle the shanks with parsley and rosemary. Sheryl Julian

Calling all Top Chefs for Season 7

Posted by Sheryl Julian November 2, 2009 06:34 PM

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On Nov. 4, the casting team from Magical Elves is coming to Boston to meet applicants for "Top Chef" and "Top Chef: Just Desserts."

Of course you need to be able to work with a camera in your face and have enough personality to get selected. In order for the casting experts to measure this, you need to send a video and a bunch of application stuff to Bravo, or do all the preliminary work and present it to the team on Wednesday.

They'll be at the Westin Boston Waterfront from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. You can always go online to submit an app (video deadline is Dec 4, www.bravotv.com/casting) but an appearance at the casting call gets you a mini interview.

Sharpen your knives.

Beer summit at Stoddard's?

Posted by Devra First November 2, 2009 04:27 PM

When a press release went out announcing the impending opening of Stoddard's Fine Food & Ale, it created a bit of an outcry. It read, in part: "Finally, the gentlemen-only Friday Club at STODDARD’S, on the lower level with a private entry reminiscent of a speakeasy, may quite likely become the city’s most sought-after membership (by invitation only)." Some folks didn't like that gentlemen-only idea much. You know, people like the ACLU and NOW.

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File Photo by Saul Loeb/AFP/Getty Images

It turns out Stoddard's may never have intended the Friday Club to be men-only. The owners say the press release misrepresented their intentions. To clarify things, they've invited the ACLU and NOW over for a beer summit. Stay tuned to find out whether the offer is accepted.

Ground beef recall list

Posted by Sheryl Julian November 2, 2009 04:24 PM
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Here is the recall list from Fairbank Farms (Ashville, N.Y.) of ground beef that may be contaminated with E. coli. If you're preparing ground beef, use a cutting board that is well washed. Cook the beef to 160 degrees (test with an instant-read meat thermometer). If in doubt, toss the meat!

Trader Joe’s
• 1-pound packages of “TRADER JOE’S BUTCHER SHOP FINE QUALITY MEATS GROUND BEEF 85/15.”
• 1-pound packages of “TRADER JOE’S BUTCHER SHOP FINE QUALITY MEATS GROUND BEEF 80/20.”
NOTE: The sell-by dates for the above two products may be October 6 or 7, 2009.
• 1-pound trays of “TRADER JOE’S BUTCHER SHOP FINE QUALITY MEATS GROUND BEEF PATTIES 96/4 EXTRA LEAN.”
• 1-pound trays of “TRADER JOE’S BUTCHER SHOP FINE QUALITY MEATS GROUND BEEF PATTIES 85/15.”

Price Chopper
• 1- and 2.5-pound trays of “PRICE CHOPPER MEATLOAF & MEATBALL MIX.”
• 1-pound trays of “PRICE CHOPPER EXTRA LEAN GROUND BEEF 96/4.”
• 1-pound trays of “PRICE CHOPPER FRESH GROUND BEEF CHUCK FOR CHILI 80% LEAN 20% FAT.”

Lancaster and Wild Harvest
• 1-pound trays of “LANCASTER BRAND 96/4 EXTRA LEAN GROUND BEEF.”
• 1- and 2-pound trays of “LANCASTER BRAND 90/10 GROUND BEEF.”
• 1-pound trays of “WILD HARVEST NATURAL 85/15 ANGUS GROUND BEEF.”

Shaw’s
• 1- and 2-pound trays of “SHAW’S FRESH GROUND BEEF 93/7.”
• 1-, 2- and 3-pound trays of “SHAW’S FRESH GROUND BEEF 80/20.”
• 1- and 3-pound trays of “SHAW’S FRESH GROUND BEEF 75/25.”
• 1.3-pound trays of “SHAW’S FRESH GROUND SIRLOIN BEEF PATTIES 90/10.”
• 1.3-pound trays of “SHAW’S FRESH GROUND ROUND BEEF PATTIES 85/15.”
• 1.3-pound trays of “SHAW’S FRESH GROUND BEEF PATTIES 80/20.”
• 3-pound trays of “SHAW’S FRESH GROUND BEEF PATTIES FAMILY PACK 80/20.”
• 1-pound trays of “SHAW’S ANGUS GROUND BEEF 85/15.”
• 1-, 2- and 3-pound trays of “SHAW’S FRESH GROUND ROUND BEEF 85/15.”
• 1-pound trays of “SHAW’S 90% NATURAL GROUND BEEF.”
• 1-pound trays of “SHAW’S 85% NATURAL GROUND BEEF.”
• 1-, 2- and 3-pound trays of “SHAW’S FRESH GROUND SIRLOIN 90/10.”
• 1-pound trays of “MEATLOAF & MEATBALL MIX.”

BJ’s
• 5-pound trays of “FRESH GROUND BEEF, CONTAINS 15 % FAT” patties.
• 3- and 5-pound trays of “LEAN GROUND BEEF, CONTAINS 7% FAT.”
• 2.5-pound trays of “MEATLOAF & MEATBALL MIX.”

The Regal Beagle opens Nov. 3

Posted by Devra First October 29, 2009 04:07 PM

And the food sounds more serious than I expected. In a good way. The chef at the new Coolidge Corner spot is Laura Henry-Zoubir, who went to the Culinary Institute of America and has worked at Biba, Hamersley's Bistro, Prezza, Taranta, and the Lanam Club in Andover.

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The Beagle will offer "creative but approachable food that 'makes you feel all warm inside.'" Aww! That description makes me feel all warm inside.

Sample dishes are seared scallops with pistachio brittle crust, butternut squash risotto, and dried cherry glaze; pan-roasted halibut with sherry beurre blanc, braised lentils, and roasted carrots; mac 'n' cheese with buttery Ritz cracker and sea salt crust; and slow-roasted chicken with soft polenta, Swiss chard, and braised mushrooms. (That last sounds fall-night perfect.)

At the bar, all wines will be available by the glass, alongside "inventive" cocktails.

And, yes, there will be brunch.

Change of policy at Stoddard's

Posted by Devra First October 28, 2009 02:24 PM

The original press release read: "Finally, the gentlemen-only Friday Club at STODDARD’S, on the lower level with a private entry reminiscent of a speakeasy, may quite likely become the city’s most sought-after membership (by invitation only)."

Seemed fairly clear. Today this "Important Correction from STODDARDS in Boston" arrives. "MEMBERS ONLY – NOT MALES ONLY.

"In response to inquiries about the membership policy of a subterranean private club below this new downtown gastropub, managing partner William Ashmore today issued a statement that lays to rest any hints of chauvinism or non-inclusiveness:

“Our goal at STODDARD’S FINE FOOD & ALE is to provide an authentic dining and drinking atmosphere that recalls a by-gone era. In the 1800's, the term 'gentlemans club' was used to identify many types of private clubs, smoking lounges and eating establishments. Our research unearthed one in particular -- The University Boston Club (circa 1855) -- that met on Fridays at a Tremont Street location around the corner from STODDARD’S. Its self-stated mission was '… to delight in the art of dining, and to take freely in after-dinner discussion without malice or irritation.'

"In homage to our convivial neighbors of 1855, there will be a members-only component to The Friday Club at STODDARD'S. The club’s founding members are free to choose additional members as they see fit. Naturally, women are free to join, and to visit as guests. All members sign a code of conduct promising to 'maintain an environment of respect and consideration for others'."

So there you have it. The original press release could have flubbed it, or else the original intent could have been to have a men-only club and questions (see here, here, here, and here, for instance) about the desirability/legality of such an enterprise prompted the Stoddard's folks to change their minds.

At any rate, girls are now allowed in the treehouse.

Dining chat Oct. 28

Posted by Devra First October 28, 2009 09:13 AM

Tune in Wednesday, Oct. 28, at 11 a.m. to talk about food and restaurants.

Bon Savor: the back story

Posted by Devra First October 27, 2009 04:27 PM

This week I reviewed Bon Savor, a charming little Jamaica Plain restaurant with a new chef: Marco Suarez, formerly of Eastern Standard.

His presence made Bon Savor worthy of re-review. But there was another reason I wanted to revisit this restaurant (which is also known for its brunch, by the way, something I didn't write about).

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Bon Savor co-owner Ibonne Zabala. (Globe Staff File Photo/Janet Knott)

Shortly after they brought Suarez on this past summer, owners Ibonne Zabala and Oleg Konovalov and their 10-month-old went to Zabala's native Colombia for a visit. They got stuck there due to visa issues. And they have not been able to return home.

The problem is their E-2 visa, according to Zabala. This type of visa allows people from certain countries to live in the US "to carry on substantial trade, including trade in services or technology, principally between the United States and the treaty country, or to develop and direct the operations of an enterprise in which the national has invested, or is in the process of investing a substantial amount of capital," according to the US Department of State.

The problem may lie in the word "substantial." Zabala says they were told they were not producing enough income, and their E-2 visa was revoked. "At the same time, we have been supporting more than 10 jobs in the community and growing in sales, and improving everyday," she wrote in an e-mail (that ended, rather heartbreakingly, with the words "Pray for us").

This is a difficult situation for restaurateurs. "Substantial" profits may mean a very different thing in the restaurant business than in other industries. It's also a difficult situation for parents. Their baby is a US citizen.

Zabala says the community of Jamaica Plain has rallied around them, offering support. Congressman Capuano's office confirms it is working on their behalf. As of Sunday, Zabala sounded positive. "We have passed through difficult times trying to get back home, but we're still thinking it's possible," she wrote. "Our lawyer is trying to solve everything, hopefully to have us at home in the next two weeks."

It's a sad irony that people who are contributing to the fabric of their neighborhood are having such a hard time returning to it.

About Dishing What's cooking in the world of food.
contributors
Sheryl Julian, the Globe's Food Editor, writes regularly for the Food section.
Devra First is the Globe's food reporter and restaurant critic. Her reviews appear weekly in the Food section.
Ann Cortissoz writes about beer for the food section.
Stephen Meuse writes about wine for the Globe's Food section. His column on Plonk ($12 and under wines) appears on the last Wednesday of the month.
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