Icelandic lamb arrived at Whole Foods -- it's in season for another month. I eyed it skeptically (I love American lamb and also like supporting American products). The shanks were half the size of the American shanks sitting beside them. Both cost $5.99 a pound.

But I was too curious about the taste to pass up the little Icelandic shanks. New Zealand lamb is also small and, I think, tasteless. American lamb can have a sheepy quality, which I happen to like.

I braised these shanks in tomatoes and white wine. When you use red wine with strong-tasting meats, I think the sauce becomes too intense. I cooked them for 1 1/2 hours, added a couple cans of white beans, and continued cooking for another 30 minutes. I'm pleasantly surprised by how much I like them.

Braised lamb shanks with white beans
Serves 4

4 lamb shanks
Salt and pepper, to taste
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 cloves garlic, cut into slices
1 large Spanish onion, halved and thinly sliced
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
1/4 teaspoon ground allspice
1 can (14 to 16 ounces) whole peeled tomatoes, crushed in a bowl
1 cup white wine
1 cup water
1 bay leaf
2 cans (15 ounces each) cannellini beans
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
2 tablespoons chopped fresh rosemary

1. Set the oven at 400 degrees.
2. Sprinkle the shanks all over with salt and pepper. In a large flameproof casserole over medium-high heat, heat the oil and when it is hot, set the shanks in the pan. Brown them without moving for 3 minutes. Turn and brown another side without moving them. Continue until the shanks are browned all over. Remove them from the pan.
3. Add the garlic, onion, salt, and pepper to the pan. Lower the heat to medium and cook the onion, stirring often, for 8 minutes. Add the cumin and allspice. Cook, stirring, for 2 minutes.
4. Stir in the tomatoes, wine, and water. Turn the heat to high. Cook, scraping the bottom of the pan, until the mixture comes to a boil. Return the shanks to the pan. Add the bay leaf. Cover the pan and transfer to the oven.
5. Cook the shanks for 1 1/2 hours or until they are almost tender.
6. Add the beans and stir them into the liquid in the pan. Recover the pot and return it to the oven. Continue cooking for 30 minutes or until the shanks are very tender.
7. Discard the bay leaf. Sprinkle the shanks with parsley and rosemary. Sheryl Julian

On Nov. 4, the casting team from Magical Elves is coming to Boston to meet applicants for "Top Chef" and "Top Chef: Just Desserts."

Of course you need to be able to work with a camera in your face and have enough personality to get selected. In order for the casting experts to measure this, you need to send a video and a bunch of application stuff to Bravo, or do all the preliminary work and present it to the team on Wednesday.

They'll be at the Westin Boston Waterfront from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. You can always go online to submit an app (video deadline is Dec 4, www.bravotv.com/casting) but an appearance at the casting call gets you a mini interview.

Sharpen your knives.

When a press release went out announcing the impending opening of Stoddard's Fine Food & Ale, it created a bit of an outcry. It read, in part: "Finally, the gentlemen-only Friday Club at STODDARD’S, on the lower level with a private entry reminiscent of a speakeasy, may quite likely become the city’s most sought-after membership (by invitation only)." Some folks didn't like that gentlemen-only idea much. You know, people like the ACLU and NOW.

It turns out Stoddard's may never have intended the Friday Club to be men-only. The owners say the press release misrepresented their intentions. To clarify things, they've invited the ACLU and NOW over for a beer summit. Stay tuned to find out whether the offer is accepted.

Here is the recall list from Fairbank Farms (Ashville, N.Y.) of ground beef that may be contaminated with E. coli. If you're preparing ground beef, use a cutting board that is well washed. Cook the beef to 160 degrees (test with an instant-read meat thermometer). If in doubt, toss the meat!

Trader Joe’s
• 1-pound packages of “TRADER JOE’S BUTCHER SHOP FINE QUALITY MEATS GROUND BEEF 85/15.”
• 1-pound packages of “TRADER JOE’S BUTCHER SHOP FINE QUALITY MEATS GROUND BEEF 80/20.”
NOTE: The sell-by dates for the above two products may be October 6 or 7, 2009.
• 1-pound trays of “TRADER JOE’S BUTCHER SHOP FINE QUALITY MEATS GROUND BEEF PATTIES 96/4 EXTRA LEAN.”
• 1-pound trays of “TRADER JOE’S BUTCHER SHOP FINE QUALITY MEATS GROUND BEEF PATTIES 85/15.”

Price Chopper
• 1- and 2.5-pound trays of “PRICE CHOPPER MEATLOAF & MEATBALL MIX.”
• 1-pound trays of “PRICE CHOPPER EXTRA LEAN GROUND BEEF 96/4.”
• 1-pound trays of “PRICE CHOPPER FRESH GROUND BEEF CHUCK FOR CHILI 80% LEAN 20% FAT.”

Lancaster and Wild Harvest
• 1-pound trays of “LANCASTER BRAND 96/4 EXTRA LEAN GROUND BEEF.”
• 1- and 2-pound trays of “LANCASTER BRAND 90/10 GROUND BEEF.”
• 1-pound trays of “WILD HARVEST NATURAL 85/15 ANGUS GROUND BEEF.”

Shaw’s
• 1- and 2-pound trays of “SHAW’S FRESH GROUND BEEF 93/7.”
• 1-, 2- and 3-pound trays of “SHAW’S FRESH GROUND BEEF 80/20.”
• 1- and 3-pound trays of “SHAW’S FRESH GROUND BEEF 75/25.”
• 1.3-pound trays of “SHAW’S FRESH GROUND SIRLOIN BEEF PATTIES 90/10.”
• 1.3-pound trays of “SHAW’S FRESH GROUND ROUND BEEF PATTIES 85/15.”
• 1.3-pound trays of “SHAW’S FRESH GROUND BEEF PATTIES 80/20.”
• 3-pound trays of “SHAW’S FRESH GROUND BEEF PATTIES FAMILY PACK 80/20.”
• 1-pound trays of “SHAW’S ANGUS GROUND BEEF 85/15.”
• 1-, 2- and 3-pound trays of “SHAW’S FRESH GROUND ROUND BEEF 85/15.”
• 1-pound trays of “SHAW’S 90% NATURAL GROUND BEEF.”
• 1-pound trays of “SHAW’S 85% NATURAL GROUND BEEF.”
• 1-, 2- and 3-pound trays of “SHAW’S FRESH GROUND SIRLOIN 90/10.”
• 1-pound trays of “MEATLOAF & MEATBALL MIX.”

BJ’s
• 5-pound trays of “FRESH GROUND BEEF, CONTAINS 15 % FAT” patties.
• 3- and 5-pound trays of “LEAN GROUND BEEF, CONTAINS 7% FAT.”
• 2.5-pound trays of “MEATLOAF & MEATBALL MIX.”

And the food sounds more serious than I expected. In a good way. The chef at the new Coolidge Corner spot is Laura Henry-Zoubir, who went to the Culinary Institute of America and has worked at Biba, Hamersley's Bistro, Prezza, Taranta, and the Lanam Club in Andover.

The Beagle will offer "creative but approachable food that 'makes you feel all warm inside.'" Aww! That description makes me feel all warm inside.

Sample dishes are seared scallops with pistachio brittle crust, butternut squash risotto, and dried cherry glaze; pan-roasted halibut with sherry beurre blanc, braised lentils, and roasted carrots; mac 'n' cheese with buttery Ritz cracker and sea salt crust; and slow-roasted chicken with soft polenta, Swiss chard, and braised mushrooms. (That last sounds fall-night perfect.)

At the bar, all wines will be available by the glass, alongside "inventive" cocktails.

And, yes, there will be brunch.

The original press release read: "Finally, the gentlemen-only Friday Club at STODDARD’S, on the lower level with a private entry reminiscent of a speakeasy, may quite likely become the city’s most sought-after membership (by invitation only)."

Seemed fairly clear. Today this "Important Correction from STODDARDS in Boston" arrives. "MEMBERS ONLY – NOT MALES ONLY.

"In response to inquiries about the membership policy of a subterranean private club below this new downtown gastropub, managing partner William Ashmore today issued a statement that lays to rest any hints of chauvinism or non-inclusiveness:

“Our goal at STODDARD’S FINE FOOD & ALE is to provide an authentic dining and drinking atmosphere that recalls a by-gone era. In the 1800's, the term 'gentlemans club' was used to identify many types of private clubs, smoking lounges and eating establishments. Our research unearthed one in particular -- The University Boston Club (circa 1855) -- that met on Fridays at a Tremont Street location around the corner from STODDARD’S. Its self-stated mission was '… to delight in the art of dining, and to take freely in after-dinner discussion without malice or irritation.'

"In homage to our convivial neighbors of 1855, there will be a members-only component to The Friday Club at STODDARD'S. The club’s founding members are free to choose additional members as they see fit. Naturally, women are free to join, and to visit as guests. All members sign a code of conduct promising to 'maintain an environment of respect and consideration for others'."

So there you have it. The original press release could have flubbed it, or else the original intent could have been to have a men-only club and questions (see here, here, here, and here, for instance) about the desirability/legality of such an enterprise prompted the Stoddard's folks to change their minds.

At any rate, girls are now allowed in the treehouse.

Tune in Wednesday, Oct. 28, at 11 a.m. to talk about food and restaurants.

This week I reviewed Bon Savor, a charming little Jamaica Plain restaurant with a new chef: Marco Suarez, formerly of Eastern Standard.

His presence made Bon Savor worthy of re-review. But there was another reason I wanted to revisit this restaurant (which is also known for its brunch, by the way, something I didn't write about).

Shortly after they brought Suarez on this past summer, owners Ibonne Zabala and Oleg Konovalov and their 10-month-old went to Zabala's native Colombia for a visit. They got stuck there due to visa issues. And they have not been able to return home.

The problem is their E-2 visa, according to Zabala. This type of visa allows people from certain countries to live in the US "to carry on substantial trade, including trade in services or technology, principally between the United States and the treaty country, or to develop and direct the operations of an enterprise in which the national has invested, or is in the process of investing a substantial amount of capital," according to the US Department of State.

The problem may lie in the word "substantial." Zabala says they were told they were not producing enough income, and their E-2 visa was revoked. "At the same time, we have been supporting more than 10 jobs in the community and growing in sales, and improving everyday," she wrote in an e-mail (that ended, rather heartbreakingly, with the words "Pray for us").

This is a difficult situation for restaurateurs. "Substantial" profits may mean a very different thing in the restaurant business than in other industries. It's also a difficult situation for parents. Their baby is a US citizen.

Zabala says the community of Jamaica Plain has rallied around them, offering support. Congressman Capuano's office confirms it is working on their behalf. As of Sunday, Zabala sounded positive. "We have passed through difficult times trying to get back home, but we're still thinking it's possible," she wrote. "Our lawyer is trying to solve everything, hopefully to have us at home in the next two weeks."

It's a sad irony that people who are contributing to the fabric of their neighborhood are having such a hard time returning to it.

For the seventh year, a team from this region, who call themselves iQue, competed at the Jack Daniels Barbecue competition in Lynchburg, Tenn. This year they won! Led by pit master Chris Hart of Hopkinton (above, second from left), iQue, who cooked on a custom-built Jambo Pit, was sponsored by Harpoon Brewery and Wicked Good Charcoal.

On Nov. 15, iQue is working with Harpoon to host Harpoon Helps Pre-Thanksgiving Beer-B-Q, an event that costs $60, which buys five turkeys for the Greater Boston Food Bank.

Attend the event, and you get to donate to the Food Bank and feast on this:

APPETIZERS
Burnt Ends on Texas Toast
Pulled Pork Canapés
Jalapeno Poppers
Championship Poon Dogs
Coconut Shrimp
Butternut Squash Bisque

DINNER
Ale-Brined Turkey with Barbecue Dry Rub, Apple Smoke
Southern Cornbread and Fatty Sausage Stuffing
Garlic Smashed Maine Potatoes
Collard Greens with Smoked Slab Bacon, Maple Syrup
Smoked Pumpkin and Root Vegetable Gratin
Grandma Wolff's Cole Slaw
Cranberry Relish
Apple Bread Pudding with Cider Sauce

If I know that someone is coming over, I try to throw a batch of scones in the oven. Tea and warm scones: is there anything better?

The only way to be able to do this is to take a recipe -- any recipe -- and make it again and again until it becomes second nature. The dough should roll off your fingers. This is the simple recipe I'm working on now.

Mini raisin scones
Makes 36

2 1/2 cups flour
1 tablespoon baking powder
1 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons solid vegetable shortening
3 tablespoons sugar
1/2 cup whole milk, or more if necessary
3/4 cup dark raisins
Extra flour (for rolling)
Extra sugar (for sprinkling)

1. Set the oven at 400 degrees. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
2. In a bowl, mix together the flour, baking powder, and salt. Add the butter and shortening. With your fingers or a pastry blender, work the mixture until it resembles sand.
3. Add the sugar, 1/2 cup of the milk, and the raisins. With the fork, work the milk into the flour mixture to form a moist dough. Add more milk, 1 tablespoon at a time, if necessary, until the dough comes together.
4. Transfer the dough to a lightly floured counter and knead it lightly, adding a little more flour to make it manageable but not dry.
5. Press the dough into an oblong or rectangle that is 3/4-inch thick. The size or shape of the dough does not matter. But don't press it thinner than 3/4 inch. Cut the dough into 1 1/2 inch bands. Cut each band into triangles. Transfer them to the baking sheet. Sprinkle with sugar.
6. Bake the scones for 20 minutes or until they are golden brown. Sheryl Julian

When Arthur Schwartz's "The Southern Italian Table" arrived on my desk last week, I had to make those gorgeous meatballs on the cover.

Schwartz is a talented writer and cook. His last book, "Arthur Schwartz's Jewish Home Cooking" won American cookbook of the year from the International Association of Culinary Professionals. He has been restaurant critic and food editor of The Daily News, and has run a cooking school in southern Italy since 2001.

I'll do the confession part first: I used dark-meat turkey mixed with ground beef. Not sure why. I love turkey meatballs. In any case, these are a cinch to put together (aren't meatballs wonderful that way?).

After they were browned in a skillet

then simmered in tomato sauce and ladled over spaghetti, we dined like kings.

Meatballs in tomato sauce
Serves 4

SAUCE
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 large clove garlic, lightly crushed
1 can (28 ounces) imported whole tomatoes, with their juices
Salt, to taste
Crushed red pepper, to taste
3 fresh basil leaves, roughly torn

1. In a large flameproof casserole, combine the oil and garlic over medium heat. When the garlic begins to sizzle, lower the heat and cook, stirring constantly, for 1 minute or until the garlic starts to color. Remove the garlic from the pan.
2. Using a food mill, puree the tomatoes into the pan or use your hand to crush them as you drop them in. Turn up the heat until the mixture comes to a simmer. Add salt and red pepper.
3. Simmer the sauce, stirring often, for 12 minutes. Add the basil halfway through cooking.

MEATBALLS
2 cups dried crustless bread in 1-inch cubes
1 1/4 pounds ground beef (80% lean)
2 eggs, beaten to mix
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1/2 cup grated pecorino cheese
1/4 cup coarsely chopped parsley
1/3 cup pine nuts
1/3 cup raisins
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon pepper
1/4 cup vegetable oil, or more if necessary (for frying)

1. In a bowl, soak the bread in cold water for a few minutes.
2. Meanwhile, in another large bowl, combine the beef, eggs, garlic, pecorino, parsley, pine nuts, raisins, salt, and pepper. Do not mix.
3. Squeeze the bread by fistfuls to drain it. Break it up with your fingers and add to the beef mixture. With your hands, mix the beef mixture well, blending the bread and meat thoroughly.
4. Using wet hands, roll the beef mixture into balls, making about 12.
5. In a skillet, heat a thin film of oil over medium-high heat. When it is hot, add the meatballs. Let them cook for a few minutes or until golden on the bottom. Using two utensils, turn the meatballs and cook a few minutes more until golden.
6. Add the meatballs to the tomato sauce and let them simmer gently for 15 minutes or until the meatballs are cooked through. Serve over spaghetti. Adapted from "The Southern Italian Table"

Jean-Georges Vongerichten came to Boston in the mid-'80s to run the Lafayette kitchen. Since then he's gone on to do one or two other things. Next week, his rapidly expanding Culinary Concepts company opens Market in the new W hotel. The menu is inspired by France, Italy, and Asia, with dishes made from local ingredients. Chef de cuisine Christopher Lee Damskey hails from the Twin Cities, where he worked at Jean-Georges’s Chambers Kitchen, among others.

Meanwhile, Azure at the Lenox is no more. It's been replaced by City Table, though chef Dennis Wilson remains. The menu offers creative twists on American classics, with plates designed for sharing. (This approach seems to be where it's at for Boston restaurants right now.) Yummy-sounding things on the menu include Really Good Lobster Soup (props for not calling it "best ever" or "world famous"); white cheddar fondue with roasted potatoes, apples, brioche, and crispy pork belly; hanger steak tacos; house-made pappardelle with braised short rib; and a Cubano.

OK, poll. Here are the disclaimers at the end of the menu:

Raw Food Thing *These items may contain raw ingredients. Consuming raw or undercooked meat, poultry, seafood, shellfish or eggs may increase your risk of foodborne illness. We Might Change Our Minds Menu items subject to change. You Might Change Your Mind Just ask! Large Parties Of six or more subject to 18% gratuity. Good Food Thing Whenever and wherever possible we use organic, sustainable, or local products. We do this in careful consideration of the environment and our effect on it. Thank you and please enjoy your visit with us.

Funny or cutesy? Did you laugh, roll your eyes, or a little of both?

Pushed back several times, the gastropub is now slated to open Nov. 17. Stoddard's Fine Food and Ale is on Temple Place in Downtown Crossing. The menu, developed by Mark Cina of Ivy, is meant to be booze-friendly. Dishes such as house-made charcuterie, oysters, burgers, chicken pot pie, and hanger steak complement an impressive list of beer (140 different brews!) and historic cocktails. Bartenders will mix the drinks with house-made block ice, a la Drink. (And with Sasha Petraske's role in the upcoming W Hotel bar, Boston's cocktail scene just keeps looking better.)

Stoddard's interior is historic, too. The building, which survived the fire of 1872, is decorated with original wooden clapboards and hammered tin, tricked out with a mahogany bar, an old safe, a shoe shine stand, and more.

Dinner is served Tues-Sun until 1 a.m., and there's a Sunday cask ale brunch for $24.

There's also an invitation-only gentlemen's club on Fridays on the lower level. Girls keep out! No ovaries allowed! Gents: Does this seem appealing, or juvenile? I'm under the impression that men sallying out for beverages on a Friday evening often prefer to have the company of women, but maybe I'm wrong about that.

At any rate, for those who expected the long-awaited Lord Hobo to be the area's next beer bar, think again. It looks like the long-awaited Stoddard's could qualify instead. It's a race to the finish.

As promised, a definition of "food and drink with personality."

Apparently, Pairings offers small plates of contemporary American cuisine for sharing, in a relaxed atmosphere. (I'm not really sure why it's called Pairings, exactly -- the name seemed to promise drink pairings, or flavor pairings, or a mad hookup scene. As it's not the first two, perhaps it's the last?)

If that description sounds like half the other restaurants in town right now, the food at least sounds creative. Sample dishes: duck with figs, chestnuts, and arugula; lobster corn dogs; grilled prawns with shishito peppers; and smoked gnocchi with oxtail, oregano, and ricotta. Of course, you'll find the requisite hanger steak and local grass-fed burger, as well. Lunch will focus on soups, salads, and sandwiches. Lobster grilled cheese, anyone?

Don't forget to get your tickets to Mass Farmers Markets' second annual Urban Barn Dance tomorrow night, Oct. 16, at 6:30 at the Dante Alighieri Center in Cambridge.

There will be contra dancing to live music, a feast prepared by Bob Sargent of Flora restaurant, dessert by Petsi Pies and Hamilton Orchards, and a silent auction for gift certificates and prizes from the likes of Hungry Mother, Herb Lyceum, Taza Chocolate, Danish Pastry House, and more.

Tickets $50. Call 781-893-8222 or e-mail martha@massfarmersmarkets.org.

With Banq now Ginger Park, and Patricia Yeo in the kitchen, what happened to former Banq chef Ranveer Brar?

He's become corporate chef for One World Cuisine, the group behind Mantra, Diva, Mela, and more, including the new Dosa Factory inside Shalimar in Central Square. He'll be overseeing recipe development for the properties, among other things.

Also new(ish): a naan bar at Mantra (rings a bell) and a new executive chef, Jerry Pabla.

It will be called Pairings. Tagline: "Food and drink with personality." Chef is Bobby Bean, who remains from Bonfire.

Sounds like the restaurant could be a) dishes paired with drinks, b) dishes with two elements that pair together, c) a speed-dating themed establishment. (Refraining from making Todd English jokes.)

More details on what it actually is to come Friday.

Tune in Wednesday, Oct. 14, at 11 a.m. to talk about food and restaurants.

Note: Please post questions directly on the live chat, not in the "add your comment" box.

In some Italian-American kitchens, the traditional pasta e fagioli is pronounced pasta fajool. One of the authentic versions of the dish begins with cranberry beans, also known as shell beans, and in Italy as borlotti beans. They have red and white marbled pots, really stunning, and they're labor intensive to peel. Each pod -- don't get the green ones because the beans aren't ripe -- yields 3 or 4 beans. Watch a movie or daydream (I prefer the latter).

Pasta fajool is made with beans, tiny pasta, tomatoes, garlic, and fresh herbs. It simmers into a beautiful dish, which you can garnish with Parmesan, parsley, and crushed red pepper. We plan to eat it all winter, using dried beans when the cranberry beans are no longer in season.

Pasta e fagioli
(Italian pasta and beans)
Serves 6

If you begin with 3 pounds of fresh cranberry beans, you’ll get about 3 cups of shelled beans. This dish tastes better if you let it sit for a couple of hours. Add more water when you reheat the pot.

2 tablespoons olive oil
1 large onion, finely chopped
3 carrots, finely chopped
Salt and black pepper, to taste
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
8 plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped or 1 can (28 ounces) imported whole tomatoes, crushed
6 cups water, or more if necessary
3 tablespoons chopped fresh oregano
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
3 pounds fresh cranberry or shell beans, shelled or 2 cans (1 pound each) shell or white beans, drained and rinsed
1 cup tiny pasta, such as shells, tubettini, farfalline (mini bow ties)
1 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
Extra chopped fresh parsley (for serving)
Crushed red pepper (for serving)

1. In a large flameproof casserole over medium heat, heat the oil and cook the onion, carrots, salt, and pepper, stirring occasionally, for 10 minutes.
2. Add the garlic and cook, stirring for 1 minute. Add the tomatoes, water, oregano, parsley, salt, and black pepper. Bring to a boil, cover with the lid and simmer for 10 minutes.
3. Meanwhile, in a large saucepan of boiling salted water, cook the pasta, stirring occasionally, for 4 minutes. Add the beans and continue cooking for 3 minutes. The pasta and beans will not be tender; they’ll cook more later. Drain into a colander.
4. Add the beans and pasta to the tomato mixture. Continue cooking, stirring often, for 20 minutes or until the beans and shells are tender. Add more water during cooking if the pot seems dry.
5. Taste for seasoning and add more salt and pepper, if you like. Ladle into bowls, sprinkle with Parmesan, parsley, and crushed red pepper. Sheryl Julian

Globe contributor Denise Swidey, a very talented pastry chef, is making sugar cookies on this video, shaped into fall leaves. Hers are perfect and she explains how you can get yours that way too.